Daily Shooting Team, Author at Daily Shooting | Shooting Tips And Reviews

How to Use a Duck Call for Beginners

Using a duck call allows for a bit of artistic improvisation in your hunting game.

As a reed-based instrument, duck calls take practice to master but are one of the most effective ways to call waterfowl into your hunting area and increase your chances of a successful hunt. It should be treated like a musical instrument – experience and knowledge of how it is built and how it works will help you get the proper pitch.

By combining these tips with plenty of practice, you’ll have a solid grasp on how to use a duck call for the beginners. And you should have the best duck call for the money to use these tips.

How To Use A Duck Call For The Beginners: Step By Step Guide

Know the instrument. There are three main types of duck calls: wood, polycarbonate, and acrylic. While all basically doing the same thing, each takes its own tweak to get the perfect call as they each emit slightly different sounds. For example, wood duck calls make soft, appeasing noises very easily, and are the best way to attract a duck’s attention if you can’t see them or are a beginner. Wood calls work best in optimal weather, especially if you are using decoys. Acrylic calls emit a higher pitched, sharp noise and take more practice to master.

That said, they are much more effective in situations where the sound is disturbed by factors such as the wind, cliffs, or long distances.

They will last for a long time, and are easy to clean, unlike wood calls. Finally, polycarbonate duck calls are like a cross between the two. As far as cleaning, maintenance, and learning curve, they are similar to acrylic calls, but the general noise they emit is closer to that of the wooden duck calls. A great sarcastic take on this can be found here.

Hold and blow the right way. A common mistake made by beginning duck hunters is that they whistle into the call instead of blow. The object is not to add any of your own influence into the call, make it as natural as possible, and a whistle throws everything off. Blow thoroughly and forcefully into the chamber and the noise emitted will be much more realistic. Also, be sure you hold the instrument by the sound chamber with pinky and ring fingers around the hole . This is the best advice I can give on how to use a duck call.

Know what you’re after. There are different kinds of ducks, and they make different sounds. Pintails have a different sound than wigeons, who make a different noise than mallards and blue or green wingtails. If you’re calling the wrong variety, you’re going to have a bad time. I suggest loading some duck photos onto your phone to easily identify what you’re spotting in the field.
Know the calls. Duck language is more complex than the basic ‘quack’ that is associated with the animal, although this is the basic call and the root of all other calls. Master that noise first, then work on the feeding call, which is more like a ‘taca-taca-taca’ following a short introductory quack. Also, try a ‘KAK KAK KAK’ type noise if trying to bring the ducks in from far away. These sounds signal feeding time and may be taken more seriously than just a quack.

An extended quack, kind of like “qqqquuuuaaaacccccckkkkkkKKKKKK!” is the sound of a sorrowful, lonely hen, and can be used to draw other ducks in for comfort. But it shouldn’t last more than a couple seconds at the most. When practicing, make each noise separately. Ducks do not link noised together, there is a noticeable pause between each one. Check out this video for examples.

Don’t get in over your head. While the ultimate goal of duck calls is always the same (getting you to bag a duck!), there are different instruments for different ability levels. I always recommend that beginners start with a double reed duck call, as it is easier to control the pitch and sound and produces a more accurate call with minimal effort. You’ll notice that double reeds aren’t as loud as single reed calls and take more breath to power. While this may seem annoying, it will help you master the calls and feel more confident out in the fields. I never even tried a single reed until I had called in several hens with the double, and had built up enough confidence that I was posting up in less secure places that needed a louder call.

When moving to a single reed duck call, you will immediately notice a difference in sound accuracy and projection. Mastering the technique of using single reed duck calls is tough. You have to blow just the right way to get audible noise and it is even more important that you hold the instrument correctly. They are tougher at impulse blows. I recommend getting set up in your location and being quiet for a few minutes before calling (which should always be done anyway) because you may attract attention on your way in. If hunting with another person, I suggest having two different instruments so that it appears there are multiple ducks in the area, I’ve had more success this way than with two people using the same call. That tends to scare ducks off.

Conclusion

As a lifelong duck hunter, I could go on and on about tips, but everything you need to know to get started is right here in this article. The satisfaction of bagging your first duck is unparalleled, it really helps you feel like a sustainable human being that is capable of fending for themselves. Read carefully my guide about how to use duck call. And if you can, let’s consider my article about best shooting sticks 2017.

My last piece of advice is to dress the part- wear your camo and hunting gear, and try to blend in with the environment. I hope this article has helped you if you have tips to add please share them in the comments below, and if you’ve enjoyed reading I’d appreciate a share on your social media accounts. Take care, and good luck out there!

Featured Image via EastCoastHunting

5 Things You Need to Know About Buck Rubs and Scrapes

The foothills of the Rocky Mountains rolling through Wyoming was the location of the most memorable buck scar I saw as a kid, a memory that has stuck with me and turned into a lifelong fascination with the simple activity of a buck rubbing its antlers against a tree.

It wasn’t until later that I learned how to incorporate buck rubs and scrapes into my hunt in order to track bucks and increase my odds of landing a big one. You can do the same by utilizing these tips that will help you understand what buck rubs and scrapes mean and pick up on the clues they contain.

5 Things You Need To Know About Buck Rubs And Scrapes

#1. Bucks leave primer pheromone scent in their rubs.

The scent accomplishes many things for the buck. First of all, it can attract does, a particularly effective mating call and flirting strategy of the buck.
Along the same line, the scent can hinder the sex drive of younger and weaker bucks. This increases the mating chances of the stronger buck, which can come into play with territorial concerns.
The scent also displays the buck’s social status. Larger, more prime bucks leave stronger scents which stimulate does and detract the approach of younger bucks.

#2. Buck rubs and scrapes help the animal ‘blow off steam’ in different ways. This is very helpful in identifying buck size, age, and location.

Rubbing against a firm tree strengthens the buck’s neck and shoulder muscles, making the animal fitter and ready to fight if necessary.
It also releases tension and helps a buck relax. It works sort of as an anxiety reliever after a long commute or stressful encounter.
Rubbing and scraping marks territory, helping the buck to feel more at home and maintain a sense of control.
Trail rubs are made by bucks that are moving through their home territory, typically between feeding areas and nesting cover. If you see frequent rubs, it may mean the buck spends the majority of its time in that area. Keep this in mind during scouting and your actual hunt. On the other hand, boundary rubs are made before rut, earlier in the season, as a buck is marking his territory. If you are out in early season these make great stand sites, but other than that you’ll have more luck scouting trail rubs later on. Rut rubs occur during peak mating season when the buck’s hormones are at the highest levels. The buck needs to release testosterone and may shred small trees and shrubbery. If you notice this activity and it wasn’t there a few days ago, set up stand because you are in the prime spot!

#3. As a buck gets older, it rubs and scrapes more often- up to 3-4 times as much as younger bucks.

This means that the scrapes you are seeing while hunting likely are the marking of an older buck. This is great news for you! Keep your eyes peeled for similar markings along your route and use them to zero in on the buck’s location and overall territory.
Older bucks start rubbing earlier in the year, with bigger marks and more frequent occurrences.
All bucks old and young will rub and scrape smaller trees, three or fewer inches in diameter. Young bucks typically won’t scrape larger trees, as this can cause tension and disputes.

#4. Young bucks don’t have the strategy that older bucks do.

Younger bucks have a tendency to scrape and rub without much theme because they are inexperienced and are just trying to mark up as much territory as possible. Older bucks know how to mark an area and identify it as theirs. When you’re trying to get the largest buck possible, pay particular attention to how consistent and numerous the scrapes are in an area.
If scrapes are similar but few and far between, the buck is young and won’t be the trophy shot you’re after.
Don’t be tricked by one scrape that is inconsistent in a line of consistent scrapes. This is likely caused by a young buck passing quickly through the area.

#5. What to look out for and keep in mind.

Wide open field rubs are likely made early season, and the buck won’t return to that open area until after shooting light is passed. You’ll want to find a nearby area of grazed trees and identify other rubs. These will be more helpful in locating the buck during hunting hours.
If you find rubs that are dried up or discolored, they were probably made in a previous year. Don’t spend much time on those because if the buck were still in the area, there would be fresh rubs.
Singular and random rubs aren’t going to be very useful during your hunt. Look for connected series of fresh rubs as described above and don’t get too excited the first time you see one. You want a trail, marking over an entire area, not just a one-off.
Landing the biggest buck will be done in fall after strong scouting, back rub and scrape tracking, and trial and error. Return to areas of consistent rubbing several times and you will greatly increase your odds of landing that trophy buck!

Conclusion

Looking for buck scrapes and rubs is an essential part of fall hunting. When done correctly, this process will greatly increase your chances of making a kill and having something to brag about.

I suggest doing some web research to get a feel for what these scrapes and rubs look like and identify lookalikes when out in the field. Another my article best shooting sticks 2018, check it if you need buy a shooting sticks.

I hope you have enjoyed this article! I’ll be back out in Wyoming each year looking to find the next gorgeous collection of scrapes and rubs. If you found this to be helpful, please share on your social networks. I’m interested to hear your thoughts on this topic – let’s get a conversation going in the comments section, that way we can all learn more tricks of the trade.

Featured Image via USFWS Mountain-Prairie

How to Find Deer Sheds

Although you may have heard otherwise, there isn’t much luck or many secrets about how to find deer sheds.

What it really takes is patience, a keen knowledge of the trail and habitat, and a bit of hunting prowess. I found my first shed antlers at the age of 11 after my uncle had spent three years instructing and leading me around without any luck.

It happened because we covered ample ground quickly during the hunt, with our eyes skimming the terrain for noticeable color differentiations. I’ll admit, I felt like a much more legit hunter after snapping a photo with the shed and showing it to my friends (I instantly gained more respect around our small town, too – it’s amazing what a nice trophy does for your reputation!)

Since that hunt, I’ve collected many sheds and in this article, I’ll break down field-tested tips on the best ways to go about the practice, what to look out for, and what NOT to do when trying to find deer sheds. you can read Whitetail Scouting Tips to know about some my tips.

What you need to find deer sheds

A sharp eye. Rarely will a hunter trip himself over a shed set of antlers. When in the field, keep your eyes peeled just above the tips of the shrubbery for anything sticking up or oddly colored. Instead of darting your eyes around from side to side, take the time to focus on your surroundings and process everything that you see. It should almost feel like you are memorizing the terrain for later reference.
Time in the field. Sorry, but your first hunt might not land you anything. Nor the second, While some guys seem to find sheds like your chubby friend finds a KFC, that isn’t normally the case, especially for newer hunters.
A sense of place. You have to have an understanding of where deer traverse, where they sleep, and where they are during the critical time of year when shedding happens. This is why your best bet for finding deer sheds is typically going to be on hunts closer to home – you are more familiar with their patterns, you see their migration pattern, you know where they cluster together and where they run free.

Step-by-step instructions for how to find deer sheds

Locate food and water sources. Where are the deer in your area feeding? If there are cornfields or terrain with diverse vegetation and nearby water, those are great places to start. The reason this is number 1 is because bucks spend so much time feeding that your odds of finding sheds near their food source are significantly higher than anywhere else. Clear-cut areas, hard mast areas, places where berries and nuts grow, these are all solid spots to check out. Watch this video to get a good visual of what you should be looking for.
Raise a hunting dog. Want an extra pair of eyes and ears? Better yet, a nose that puts yours to shame? A pup provides all of those things. Plus, he needs the off-season exercise. A hunting dog will take after you, so if he sees how excited you get upon finding a shed (even if it’s a staged setup in the backyard) he will crave that attention and recognition. It will take time and a lot of encouragement to get the dog up to speed and teach him what to look for. The easiest way to do this is by ALWAYS bringing the dog with you on hunts, and taking several days during the winter to try and find sheds. Dogs are creatures of habit. Get them excited about something, and they will have a lifelong passion for it. Here is a video explaining how to do this:
Find their bedding areas. In the winter, bucks spend a whole lot of time in the bedding areas. Identify south facing slopes in the area because they provide the deer with the maximum amount of sun and warmth, which in addition to keeping the deer warm means that accumulated snowfall is going to be minimized. I remember finding three sets of antlers in one area during a particularly successful mission traversing from the top of a medium hill down the south facing side to a creek at the bottom. This is the ideal winter habitat for deer, with nearby water and food in addition to the extra sun. Down low, there was ample tree cover and a strong thicket of vegetation near the watershed. Tracks and poop were aplenty, and I knew right away that I was on the right track. I’ve returned every year since and get lucky about 75% of the time.
Search during late winter and early spring. To be more specific, March and April for whitetail deer are the best months. While I’ve had success in February and early April, your odds are exponentially higher once maximum snowfall and cold temperatures have passed. If you’re looking for mule deer sheds, push everything back one month and begin your search in April. Odds are you can get several good laps in before temperatures rise and deer become more mobile in mid-May.
Identify objects that will loosen or pull on the antlers. What causes the antlers to take their final plunge is rough contact with tree branches, thick patches of brush, fences, and other solid objects that deer come into contact with. Last year I found a small antler set literally stuck on the side of a fence post, which the deer had evidently tried to either jump over or charge. You’re not going to have much luck in wide open grassy fields unless you stick to the perimeter, along the side of where objects like the aforementioned are. This renowned expert explains more.
Find game trails. Because of reason number 5, game trails can lead you in the right direction. Deer will take the trails coming in and out of thicker areas or heading to water sources, places where they spend a lot of time during late winter. They will likely be feeling relaxed on these trails and trotting leisurely, stopping to look around and check out the surroundings, proving ample time for the antlers to fall off while they are bent over.
Find the oak leaves. Now, I’m not sure if this is just my experience or what, but so many times I find the antlers laying on top of oak leaves, looking like a weathered stick. They tend to blend into these situations, so always keep your eyes peeled and move slowly. Take the time to fully analyze everything around you and don’t be afraid to zig zag around to check out promising leads. Lee Lakosky offers some great first-hand advice here.

Plan on getting some exercise. Make a day of it. Walk for miles, especially if you find deer tracks or droppings. Bring a lunch, maybe a six pack of beer, and plenty of water. Toilet paper, a map, and even a book can be good to for when you need to take a break. I’m always surprised by the number of people trying to find sheds that aren’t willing to put in any effort. This activity is like everything in life – the more effort you put into it, the higher your chances of success.
Look under stand-alone trees. If a deer is out in the field, feels threatened, but has nowhere to go, a lone tree may be shelter to hide under. He may also head there for any berries or food nearby, or to take a rest. This is a tip that not many people know about, so even if you’re in a highly trafficked area you might have found a hidden gem that others haven’t visited. If there are large amounts of leaves around the tree, this is even better. For whatever reason, I’ve always found that deer are attracted to leaves and seem to enjoy walking through them, often scattering them around.
Pre-scout! Get to know your target area a little better before heading out, especially if it’s not close to home or somewhere that you visit frequently. Using a topo map, mark the areas where you intend to spend ample time and also include a few backup spots. If you can find a forum online where hunters talk about that specific place, it will be of great help. Ask questions read other people’s comments. The more knowledge you bring with you, the better your chances of success! When shooting a deer, you can use best shooting sticks to improve your result.

Conclusion

I hope this guide has given you a good base of knowledge on how to find deer sheds. While this activity is relaxing and not always strenuous, it is becoming increasingly popular because of its accessibility and the satisfaction that comes with finding a set of antlers. It doesn’t take a high skill level and is great for families, so I encourage you to get your crew together and get out there! If you liked this guide, please help spread the word by sharing on your social media accounts. I’d love to hear your stories and tips, please share in the comments below. Thanks for reading!

Featured Image via Julie anne Johnson

Get Your Whitetail With 3 Simple Whitetail Scouting Tips

As a native Nebraskan, whitetail hunting is a sport I’ve been part of, seen, and thought about my entire life.

I’m fortunate to have taken part in several successful hunts that have landed trophy bucks and have watched the habits of long-time successful hunters. Here in this article, I’m going to share the most proactive whitetail scouting tips from my own experience and from what I’ve observed the most successful hunters doing. A successful scouting expedition is an unforgettable experience and by incorporating these tactics into your approach, you’ll find that tracking and bagging whitetail deer is an accomplishable task.

#1: Find the right habitat.

Whitetail deer follow habitual feeding and living and patterns. You aren’t going to see them springing alone across grassy knolls in broad daylight while you sit nearby, ready to ambush. Tracking deer starts with finding their living, grazing, and migrating hubs.

The simplest way to go about finding habitats likely to host whitetail bucks is to look for mature hardwood forests. These provide more cover than younger forests, as well as more nutrients and food. Acorns are a great sign – you’ll typically see white oak acorns falling as soon as September, with red and black acorns falling later in the season. Whitetail feed on these acorns and also on surrounding fauna.
Places like creek bottoms, clearings within forests, and other spots where the ground is relatively level and dry are places bucks will congregate. If it’s rocky, they will keep moving or avoid the area altogether.
In the right areas, you’ll find early scrapes from the bucks. Identify where bucks have marked territory with their antlers, forehead, or saliva, or kicked an area free of leaves and debris with their feet. On travel routes from higher elevations, you should be able to find areas marked by these scrapes as the bucks move towards feeding areas (source here). Find a secluded spot that provides visibility of their movement across the areas and observe what happens over the course of a morning. Not much activity means they may have detected a threat or moved on.
I always start by looking for natural and manmade objects that attract deer, perhaps the most basic of my whitetail scouting tips. Power lines, crevasses in otherwise flat terrain, ridges, rivers and streams. I recommend keeping three things top-of-mind during your approach:
- Do whitetail feel safe here?
- Can they feed or drink here?
- What other wildlife is in the area that may drive them away?
A good visual of these areas is provided here:

#2: Locate staging and bedding areas

Staging areas are where deer wait until after sunset to move into an open field for food. They won’t do this during the day, but signs of their presence are usually visible. They move down from bedding areas, stage themselves 200 yards or less from the target area, and proceed when they feel safe. Look for these signs:

Bedding areas are typically found in areas where the bucks rest during the day and where the feed during the night. You will want to look for areas with shade and/or easy access to food, such as orchards, high fauna areas near water, and clover fields. If you can identify game trails you’ll know you are on the right track, follow them towards covered areas or areas with more diverse vegetation than just an open field.
The Whitetail Journey Team gives great examples of this in this video.

When whitetail approach a feeding or bedding area, they have a ‘prey’ mentality. They stop along hedges and trees up to 200 yards from the area and analyze the situation, usually waiting until dark to head into the open. These ‘staging areas’ can be great places to spot them. Backtrack from the bedding area towards cover and look for signs of presence like droppings, ruffled and nibbled branches/leaves. Here is another video showcasing staging areas:

Deer will forage five pounds of food every day. Partially chewed fruit, berries, and leaves are a great sign of recent activity in the area. Fresh droppings are also a good indication. Once you have found food sources and staging areas, you’re ready to find the rub line.

#3: Use the locations you’ve identified to unravel a rub line

Now you are ready to make your move. Find the rub line, find your ambush area, and wait. Keep these things in mind:

The mature bucks, the ones you really want to be focusing on, will make the first and most noticeable rubs. I usually see this happening in September. When you see a rub mark on a tree, you will know the buck faced that direction as he passed the tree, so head in that direction to find the next rub. You will likely notice some markings of passage from the buck. Once you have identified a line of rubs, mark them on a map so you don’t forget the locations.
After you have the line marked out, walk around the area and mark down key ambush spots along the rub line. Where will you have the best shot? Which areas provide the best visibility?
For the best whitetail scouting, use a trail camera. You’ll want to place it along the already identified rub line because you know that the deer are already using that route. This will save film and time, and help you identify when the route is being trafficked so that you’ll know when to be at your ambush spots.
Get to your spot early. Be very quiet. These seem like obvious whitetail scouting tips, but they shouldn’t be taken for granted. (Early season whitetail scouting is the best time.)

Conclusion

These are my tried and tested whitetail scouting tips that helped me land my first buck. Be smart in the field and be aware of your surroundings. This methodology combined with growing experience out in the field will help you be more successful in your hunting and feel more in control as well. I hope you enjoyed reading this and are excited to try the tips on your next!

I’d love to hear what you think about this article, feel free to comment below and share on social media – the more educated and aware hunters are of best whitetail scouting practices, the more sustainable our sport will be not only for us but for future generations.

The Best AR-10 Models on a Budget

The AR-10 is definitely one of those rifles you’ll want if you’re a rifle aficionado, not only because it’s awesome, but also because it’s the forerunner of other versions of ArmaLite. There wouldn’t be an AR-15 without an AR-10 — it’s good to know where the modern versions of ArmaLite came from. Before we discuss which is the best AR-10, let’s look back on its history.

rifle sitting on a table best AR-10

Back in the day, the AR-10 ruled over other rifles on the market. When Eugene Stoner developed the AR-10 in the late 1950’s, he definitely knew he was up to something great. Hence, when the first AR-10 graced the rifle market, most rifle enthusiasts and hunting fanatics wanted to get hold of the AR-10.

The reason being was because it was very innovative with its straight-line barrel and stock design that had never been used before. It’s made of phenolic composite and some forged alloy parts which makes an AR-10 significantly smaller compared to other rifles back then. Plus, it allows its users to have more control during automatic firing. Furthermore, it was lighter compared to other infantry rifles during those days.

Throughout its existence, the AR-10 has evolved and been rescaled. In fact, it was rescaled in 1957 and was substantially improved to allow for the use of the .223 Remington cartridge. However, it was not only the military who wanted to gain access to the AR-10; even governments who learned of the effectiveness and efficiency of AR-10 became interested in buying this highly taunted rifle.

Find the best scope for AR 10 in my recent article

Variants of the best AR-10

Fairchild holds the patent for manufacturing the AR-10 in the late 1950s. But, in 1956 the US Army was adamant about replacing the old M1 Garand, so Fairchild submitted two prototypes of AR-10. However, he was not successful in its bid at that time and the conventional T44 won the bid.

When the manufacturing license for AR-10 was bought by Artillerie Inrichtingen, the AR-10 had the potential to become mass-produced. Nicaragua ordered around 7,500 rifles; however, the deal was canceled once General Anastasio Somoza was almost hit by the ejector during the endurance test for the old AR-10.

Experts in firearms advise that there are distinct variants of AR-10 that were produced under Artillerie Inrichtingen— the Sudanese, the Transitional, and the Portuguese models. The good tips for you, you can use the best shooting ticks to hold the ar10, it will help you have the best target.

The Best AR-10 For A Budget

Now that you know a little more about the AR-10, let’s discuss some of the best budget options. The prices listed below are estimates, as costs are always changing because of newer models coming out and discount sales, but we’ll provide you with an approximate price.

1.DPMS Oracle 308 ($1,099)

The DPMS Oracle is a simple entry-level AR-10 that works well, especially for its cheap price. The barrel is 16 inches and made of chrome. However, the stock, handguard, gripe, and trigger are all relatively basic, but function well. Besides being affordable, this is also a very customizable gun— which means you can make adjust it to suit your style. Also, you can fit a scope to it without any issues. Not to mention the accuracy is great and it’s a reliable entry-level gun.

2.Windham Weaponry SRC-308 ($1,400)

The Windham is an upgrade from the oracle. The barrel is 16.5 inches and contains chrome-lined steel. The attachments that it comes with like the handguard, gripe, and stock are all basic, but they can be upgraded. The top is optic compatible and you can attach it to pretty much any scope you want. Plus, the trigger is a standard single action. If you want a gun with excellent quality and is customizable, then this one is a great option.

3. Aero M5E1 Complete Rifle ($1,400)

Another gun within the $1,400 range is the Aero M5E1. It has incredible accuracy and comes from a respected brand for both entry-level AR and name brand models. The barrel on the base model is 16 inches and chrome, but you can upgrade it straight out of the box for an extra fee. It has a single-action trigger but functions very well. It’s not too loose or too tight, and this gun can handle scopes and other accessories well because it’s customizable. With the Aero M5E1, you don’t have to worry about getting low-quality due to spending less— it comes from a great brand and fires an expensive AR-10.

4.Armalite AR10 ($2,200)

Getting into a more pricey model, we have the Armalite AR-10. The original AR-10 manufacturer makes this gun, so you know it is top quality. The barrel varies in length depending on the one you choose; however, it’s made of steel. That means it will have better accuracy than the previous brands on this list. Also, the handguards and stock are starting to improve in quality. While the above rifles on this list aren’t bad— especially for the cost— this one is better. Another thing that sets this gun apart is that it has a two-stage trigger. It most kinds of optics and can be customized the way you like it.

5.Daniel Defense DD5 ($3,300)

Last on this list is the Daniel Defense DD5, which comes in a few different versions, and this gun is worth every penny. The barrel is free-floating and forged from cold hammered steel, and the stock is adjustable and customizable. Additionally, the rail is long and can hold many attachments. It has a two-stage Geissele trigger, plus the accuracy on this gun is exceptional. Depending on what model you get, the barrel ranges from 18 inches to 20 inches. So if you are in the market for a high-end rifle, this is the one. It is perfect for any type of shooting, from defense to hunting.

Tips on Buying The Best AR-10

The primary thing to understand if you want to own the best AR-10 is knowing your options. You can either assemble your own AR-10 or buy a preassembled one. If you are going to assemble it yourself, you should know how to shop around for quality parts. However, if you want to buy a ready-made AR-10, there are plenty available for purchase. However, bear in mind that the quality of the AR-10 unit that you get depends on the quality of the manufacturer. Here are a few other things to consider while you’re shopping around:

Triggers

The trigger is the aspect that determines the rifle’s accuracy. It comes in either a single or double stage and each is adjustable. The advantage of a dual trigger is that you can feel when the trigger is about to break, which provides a more accurate shot. However, shooters have different preferences regarding trigger weights. Cheap triggers are spongy and heavy, so remember that when you’re shopping around.

Barrels

AR-10 barrels are available in various finishes, steel alloys, and rifling options. They also come in stainless steel or carbon steel—but the carbon option is slightly more accurate. A mil-spec finish and chrome lining guards the barrel against hard elements, but aware, chrome slightly reduces precision.

DPMS vs. Armalite

Armalite and DPMS are the two primary patterns of the AR-10, and although Armalite was the original design for the AR-10, DPMS has more to offer. It provides more compatibility with other brands, and some of its features are interchangeable with the AR-15.

How Precise is the AR-10?

Various factors determine its accuracy, and the specific load and bullet weight depends on the harmonics and size of the barrel. The AR-10 has attributes that give it incredible precision like the bolt carrier, stock, locking bolt, and the alignment of the bore. An AR-10 that’s well-built provides accuracy of one MOA or greater.

Final Thoughts On The Best AR-10

The AR-10 will always remain a desirable weapon for rifle aficionados. Despite the emergence of newer versions and more novel rifles, the rustic AR-10 will still remain dear to the hearts of gun enthusiasts.

Well, now you know to shop for the best AR-10, and you know of a few brands and models to browse to find the best AR10 for your budget. The great thing about the AR-10 is that it’s a versatile firearm and a very customizable gun. No matter which model you buy, you will be happy with it.

I hope this article helped! I also have another article about the AR-10 vs AR-15 you might want to check out.

Gun Safe Manual Downloads: Find Your Model Here

That's the best gun safe manual:

Gun Safe Manual Donwload

Name	Download
BARSKA Biometric Safe	Download
SentrySafe DSW3930 Biometric Fire-Safe	Download
Gun Vault Speed Vault SV500 Gun Safes	Download
Gun vault MV500-STD Micro vault Pistol Gun Safe	Download
Sentry Safe X055 Security Safe	Download
Stack-On PS-514 Personal Safe with Electronic Lock	Download
Gunvault SpeedVault SVB500 Gun Safe	Download
Sentry Safe X125 Security Safe	Download
Gun vault GV1000S Mini Vault Standard Gun Safe	Download
Stack-On PDS-500 Drawer Safe	Download
SentrySafe SFW123DSB Combination Fire safe	Download
Sentry Safe Biometric Quick Access Pistol Safe	Download
BARSKA Top Opening Biometric Fingerprint Safe	Download
BARSKA Quick Access Biometric Rifle Safe	Download

Hope you find you gun safe manual.

Where to Shoot a Turkey? Shoot With a Bow or Rifle?

You would certainly think that hunting a turkey is a walk in the park considering the fact that turkey seems to be a better target than big game, such as bear, elk, or even a bison.

You may have underestimated the prowess of turkey, for despite the fact that the turkey may have a pea-sized head, it may be quite difficult to hunt it, especially if you are just tyro in the art of hunting. It will be easy if you are hunting a domesticated turkey; however, it will definitely be preposterous to hunt a domesticated turkey.

On the other hand, it will surely be a rough adventure if you are going to hunt wild turkeys. Wild male turkeys usually weigh around 6 to 11 kg, and is barely 125 cm in length. The female turkeys however are a bit smaller than the male with a weight that ranges from 2 to 5.4 kg. The habitats of wild turkeys include the hardwood and conifer forests, although sometimes, they inhabit the fields, orchards, marshes, and even the pastures.

The behavior of turkeys are quite predictable. Despite their heavy weight as compared to other birds, they are capable and agile fliers. They can even fly and perch at the canopy top, although they usually prefer to fly very near the ground, and they can fly for almost half a mile.

You will definitely sense the presence of wild turkeys by the different sounds they make. They usually produce many types of sounds, and there are several terms associated with turkey sounds such as those of clucks, gobbles, putts, yelps, cuts, cackles, kee-kees, and purrs. If you want to be a great hunter of turkey, you should be cognizant of these different sounds created by turkeys and of the usual behavior of turkeys.

Turkeys are usually foraging anywhere they would find food. They can climb small trees, and they eat various types of food such as nuts and acorns. Hence, you will surely encounter one or two of them in the wild. It is however good to know the different tips on how to hunt a turkey for you to be successful in your hunting spree.

These tips include the best season to hunt turkeys. Likewise, as a hunter, you should know the behavior of your target game, and should also be knowledgeable of the best tools and weapons you should use to hit your target. In the case of hunting turkey, you got to carry with you your best weapons and know your range of efficiency in hitting a turkey.

How to Attract your Turkey?

Plant food Plot

Just like in any hunting game, you need to draw out your target to a specific location where in you can have a good shot at it. To draw out turkeys, you need to plant lush http://wildlifeseeds.com/foodplots/turkey/“>food plot for the unsuspecting turkeys, for surely, turkeys want abundant forage.

Learn the Turkey Calling Sounds

Turkeys, as mentioned earlier, create different types of vocalizations. They usually use these vocalizations for different reasons such as attracting or calling their mates or simply informing their mates about their locations. Two of the most popular turkey vocalizations that you can make use of is the hen yelp and the simple cluck. If you master these two calling sounds, you may end up with a lot of killed turkeys when you go back home. You can also learn the turkeys’ slate call and the locator calls.

Wear the Best Camouflage while hunting

If you really want to be almost invisible to the gobbler’s eyes, it is imperative that you wear a total camouflage. Your camouflage should be appropriate to the specific season for hunting, and your camouflage should match the color of the place.

Your Best Weapon in Hunting Turkey

Where to Shoot a Turkey with a bow

It is of course quite difficult to hunt a turkey with a bow, for turkeys become easily aware of any imminent or actual danger. They immediately take flight at the first sense of danger. For this reason, it is very difficult to use a bow or even to take aim at the turkey using a bow. In fact, at the sight of a turkey, it would really be quite difficult for you to even come to a full draw without the turkey immediately sensing you. However, if you have properly set up your decoys, you can have enough time to take a good aim at the turkey. The best distance to hit a turkey is around 15 yards away, although you can still hit it from around 20 yards. You should also find the different of single https://www.dailyshooting.com/single–cam–vs–dual–cam–bows/“>cam vs dual cam bow, learn about advantage and disadvantage of them!

The bow that you should use for turkeys should have lighter drawing weight with a higher let off. The reason for this is that you need higher accuracy with turkey because you got a smaller target space with a turkey. You should also use highly specialized broadheads for turkey, because you want to immediately impart a fatal wound on a turkey target.

Aim for the head, neck, heart, and spine, and liver

If you aim for the head or neck, you may fatally wound the turkey; however, hitting these areas is quite challenging and there is a strong likelihood that you would miss on these targets. Hence, it is also good to aim for the midrib; and obviously, with the midrib as your target, you may also hit the heart, lungs, spines, and even liver. It is definitely not good to aim for the legs for that is tantamount to driving the bird to become airborne.

Where to Shoot a Turkey with a shotgun

One of the best weapons to hunt turkey is with the use of a shotgun. A https://www.quora.com/What–are–the–pros–and–cons–of–a–semi–automatic–shotgun–vs–pump–action“>single-shot shotgun may be your best option because it is the less expensive among shotguns. You can use a single pellet that can readily hit the head and deliver a deadly blow. Likewise, you can also opt for the popular Mossber 835 or Remington 870. Moreover, you can also use semi-automatic shotguns if you want a follow-up shot with minimal recoil.

When using a shotgun, it is good to aim for the neck with a single pellet shot. However, if you want a more decisive hit, you can swarm your target for a more efficient hit.

Where to Shoot a Turkey with a Rifle

https://www.dailyshooting.com/unlimited–guide–rifle–scope–need–know/“>Choosing a rifle is somewhat a personal choice, as long as you are comfortable with your rifle. There are plenty of turkey rifles to choose from depending on the budget that you have. The .22 Hornet, for example, is a good rifle for beginners.

Just like when using bows and single-shot shotguns, you should also aim at the neck or the head of the turkey to deliver a fatal shot on it when using a rifle. However, the head and neck is quite difficult targets to hit using a rifle. Hence, you can also opt to hit the turkey on its spine and heart; but surely you wouldn’t want to leave a gaping wound on the chest of the bird.

Conclusion:

Hunting turkey is one of the most exhilarating and exciting hunting games you can engage in in the wild. As long as you have the right weapon and know the habitat of wild turkeys, you will always be amply rewarded with many hits in the end.

Oh i have a post about https://www.dailyshooting.com/best–biometric–gun–safe–reviews/“>best biometric gun safe, check it out if you are planning buy a gun safe

Lastly, as long as you are cognizant of the usual behavior of turkey, you can always draw out the turkey to your target location and effectively and efficiently take an aim at it. Hope you find the best place to shoot a turkey.

The AR-10 vs AR-15? Which is Better? Compare Them!

In October 1954, the Fairchild Engine and Aircraft Company’s ArmaLite Division was established under the tutelage of George Sullivan and it began working on the development of the lightweight paratrooper’s rifle—the AR-1 “Parasniper” rifle.

The AR-5 survival rifle for downed aircrew and pilots of the U. S. Air Force immediately followed the development of AR-1. While testing the AR-5 on a shooting range, Sullivan met the talented Eugene Stoner, whom Sullivan hired immediately as his chief design engineer. By 1955, the first prototype of the novel AR-10 had been completed.

Due to the AR-10’s failure to gain significant market, the ArmaLite design team created the AR-15, a scaled-down version of the AR10.

The AR15 became the basis for the famous M16 “Armalite” assault rifle. All ArmaLite guns and rifles bear the prefix AR to indicate that they are part of the evolution of the original AR-1. In 1959, ArmaLite sold its rights on the AR-10 and AR15 designs to Colt Manufacturing Company.

Quick Navigation

What is ar10 vs ar15?The AR10 The AR15 Pros and Cons of ar10 vs ar15 Which Rifle is Better & Who Will Use It? What Does AR Stand For? What Parts Are Interchangeable Between Ar15 and Ar10 1. Buttstock Assembly 2. Trigger Group 3, Buffer Detent and Spring 4. Safety Selector 5. Magazine Release Button and Spring 6. Pistol Grip Conclusions

What is the AR-10 vs AR-15?

The AR-10

What is ar10. Source: rainierarms.com

The AR-10 is a lightweight, air-cooled, gas operated 7.62mm (.308 in) assault rifle that fires the NATO standardized 7.62x51mm cartridge in 20-round detachable box magazine.

True to its name, the Armalite AR-10 weighs between 3.29 to 4.05 kilograms (7.25 to 8.9 lbs) without ammunitions and magazine. Its lightness was due to the extensive use of aluminum alloy for its metal parts except for the steel barrel, bolt and bolt carrier, and glass reinforced plastic on the buttstock, handguard, and pistol grip.

Most gas-operated rifles bleeds the propellant gas to a port in the gun barrel to the piston in a cylinder running parallel to the gun barrel.

The gas then pushes the piston to enable the bolt to re-cock, release the spent cartridge, and load a fresh round to the chamber to make the gun ready for firing. The difference, however, of Stoner’s AR-10 design lies in the fact that the propellant gas bleeds through a cylinder running in parallel with the gun barrel to impinge the bolt carrier mechanism.

This “direct gas impingement” gives the best AR-10 a high cyclic rate of fire of 700 rounds per minute with a muzzle velocity of 845 meters per second or 2,772 feet per second.

Externally, the AR-10’s looks has become iconic due to its predecessor, the AR-15 or specifically the M16. The AR-15 incorporates an elevated front sight and a carrying handle that houses the rear sights and acts a protection to the cocking/charging lever. Likewise, the AR-10 measures 1.029 meters (40 ½ inches) in overall length with a barrel length of 0.508 meters or 20 inches.

The AR-15

What is ar15? Source: rainierarms.com

Derived from the AR-10, the AR-15 uses the same “direct gas impingement” operation introduced in the AR-10 and carries most developments as compared to its predecessor.

However, while the AR-10 is a “full-caliber” rifle, the AR-15 is a lighter version of 5.56mm (0.223 in) caliber. The AR15/M16 uses the 5.56x45mm M193 cartridge in 20- or 30-round magazines. The AR-15/M16 extensively use the lightweight “nylonite” for its furniture, and can weigh from 2.2 to 3.9 kilograms or 5.5 to 8.5 lbs.

The “direct gas impingement” via rotating bolt operation gives the AR-15 a cyclic rate of fire of 800 rounds a minute with a muzzle velocity of 975 meters per second or 3,200 feet per second to a maximum effective range of 550 meters or 600 yards. The AR-15/M16 has an overall length of 1.006 meters or 39.63 inches with a barrel length of 0.508 meters or 20 inches.

Pros and Cons of AR-10 vs AR-15

The AR-10 vs AR-15 has its own share of good and bad points.

One of the good points that both rifles share when compared with other contemporary designs of its time is lightness.

Due to this inherent lightness, it is possible to carry more ammunition with these two types of rifles. However, with the 7.62mm AR-10 and 5.56mm AR-15 cartridges, you can carry a lot more of the lighter rounds at any given weight.

While the 7.62mm round can outrange the 5.56mm round, the smaller projectile travels at much higher speeds than the bigger projectile.

Due to the higher mass of the AR-10’s larger bullet, the projectile can store greater kinetic energy that can translate into stopping or knocking power.

On the other hand, the higher rate of fire that the AR-15 imparts can translate into multiple hits. However, the term AR-10 and AR-15 applies only to single-shot and semi-automatic versions for civilian use.

Which Rifle is Better & Who Will Use It?

Which is better between ar10 vs ar15. Source: gundigest.com

Both AR-10 vs AR-15 rifles attract the attention of many gun collectors, hunters, sport shooters, and even law enforcers.

Both rifles are light enough to carry around even by women of small stature.

It is, however, the number of rounds needed to do a job that really matters.

For big game hunters, of course it is better to have a large caliber like 7.62mm rifle. It will be easier to use and necessitates less bullet to bring down a large game.

Law enforcers, especially snipers, need a 7.62mm AR-10 with a best scope for an AR-10 to have a good standoff range in order to cover a wider search area. The AR-10 has greater range than most 22 rifles.

The AR-15 is well suited for home protection, varmint and other small game hunting, and even security and public protection duties. A single-shot from a small caliber rifle is nothing new in enforcing security and public protection.

The Royal Ulster Police constables use the 5.56mm Ruger semi-automatic rifles during the IRA heydays in Northern Irish cities along with British infantry units armed with 7.62mm L1A1 semi-automatic rifles. The useful tips to hold the target is using a best shooting sticks.

What Does AR Stand For?

There’s a lot of confusion surround this question. As violent incidents involving guns happen around the country, the mainstream media is very commonly throwing out that AR stands for “Assault Rifle.” You hear this quite a bit on the news; news anchors are always talking about the availability of “assault rifles.”

But, is that what AR actually stands for?

Let’s take a look.

The Basics

Before we talk about what the AR in AR-15 actually stands for, its important to understand where the AR-15 came from.

What most people think of when they think AR is definitely the extremely common AR-15, which is nearly identical to the military’s M4 Carbine. However, what most people don’t know is that the AR-15 was a civilian rifle before it was a military weapon.

The original AR-15 was designed by a company called ArmaLite. Prior to producing the AR-15, ArmaLite had already produced the AR-5 and the AR-10. The AR-15 was based closely on the AR-10, but was made to be smaller and more lightweight. It also shot a smaller caliber bullet than the AR-10.

The original AR-10 was actually turned down by the military, as one of the ones that they tested was faulty. The M14 was originally chosen over the AR-10, but as history shows, this rifle was not that effective and did not last that long.

The M14 was replaced by the Colt AR-15 not too long after it was chosen of ArmaLite’s AR-10.

Wait a minute, COLT AR-15? What happened?

Now, the main reason that you probably haven’t heard of ArmaLite is the fact that they had to fold and they sold their rights for the AR-15 to Colt. ArmaLite started as an extremely small machining company, and never really intended to be firearms manufacturers.

After getting turned down by the military multiple times for their firearms models, they were experiencing financial difficulty, and they eventually sold their patents and rights to the weapon to Colt. Colt renamed the weapon the Colt ArmaLite AR-15.

After some very minor changes, Colt would eventually convince the military to use their AR-15, and the ArmaLite name would eventually be dropped off.

So, What Does AR Stand For?!

Assault rifle gun for the American military is placed beside the old wall.

As we mentioned, ArmaLite never meant to be firearms manufacturers. They kept it pretty simple, and named their weapons ArmaLite Rifles. As they created new designs, they continued to call them ArmaLite Rifles, or AR for short.

Unfortunately, this has gotten twisted, and people now refer to this awesome weapon frame as automatic rifles or assault rifles commonly, but as you’ve now learned, this is inaccurate!

What is Pre-ban AR-15

A pre-ban AR-15 is one that was produced before September 13th, 1994. The reason that date is important is that is when the United States passed the Violent Crime Control and Law Enforcement Act of 1994, which is better known as the 1994 Crime Bill. This made owning semiautomatic rifles illegal unless you already owned them. It also made changes in the manufacturing of the lower recover, so the gun could not be automatic. The law has since expired, but some states still enforce it. That is why pre-ban guns are still desirable. Also, pre-ban guns are easier to convert to automatic for people that want to do that because the receiver doesn’t have a high shelf that can block attachments. This is the simple explanation of what a pre-ban AR-15 is.

What Parts Are Interchangeable Between AR-15 and AR-10

What Parts Are Interchangeable Between Ar15 and Ar10

One common question with today’s tactical rifles is which parts are interchangeable between an AR-15 and an AR-10.

For starters, AR-15s and AR-10s are extremely similar weapons. They function in very similar ways, are built on similar frames and have some similar parts.

The primary difference between the two is that an AR-15 is bored in 5.56/.223 and an AR-10 is bored in 7.62/.308.

Are you looking to build a new AR frame weapon or looking to expand your arsenal and wondering which parts are the same?

We will take a look at some of the parts that are commonly interchangeable between AR-15s and AR-10s.

Keep in mind that this is a general list, and different firearms manufacturers may use slightly different parts, so there is no guarantee that every single part we list will be interchangeable between every single AR-15 and AR-10.

Here is the list of commonly interchangeable parts between the two.

1. Buttstock Assembly

The buffer tubes of AR-15s and AR-10s are commonly the same diameter, so the same buttstock assemblies can be used for both.

While this is a simple part, a quality buttstock assembly can improve your shooting and allow for more comfort.

2. Trigger Group

Despite the fact that the lowers of AR-15s and AR-10s are generally different sizes, because they are based on a very similar frame, trigger groups are generally interchangeable between the two.

The trigger group consists of the trigger, trigger spring, hammer, hammer spring, disconnector, and disconnector spring.

Mechanicaly, it is a simple mechanism, and can be used on both an AR-15 and an AR-10.

3, Buffer Detent and Spring

While it is a very small, seemingly insignificant part, the buffer detent and spring is interchangeable between AR-15s and AR-10s.

This small part holds the buffer of the weapon in place.

However, due to the differences in recoil, the buffer itself is not interchangeable.

4. Safety Selector

Yet another very small part, however, the importance of this part is unquestioned. The safety selector switch is generally the same in AR-15s and AR-10s, so this part is interchangeable.

5. Magazine Release Button and Spring

The magazine release button and spring is an interchangeable part, despite the fact that the magazine catch is different in an AR-15 and an AR-10.

6. Pistol Grip

As they are based on the same frame, AR-15s and AR-10s commonly have the same size pistol grip. An improved pistol grip will help some people shoot more accurately, and will generally be more comfortable.

Despite the fact that the AR-15 and AR-10 are extremely similar weapons, there are enough differences to prevent most parts from being interchangeable. These differences are generally a result of the different calibers, which require different size parts. Even though the weapons are so cosmetically similar, and function in the same way, the difference in size results in all around different parts.

This list gives you an idea of some of the parts that are interchangeable between AR-10 vs AR-15.

While most of these parts may seem insignificant, the trigger group specifically will make the most difference. An improved trigger group will help the average shooter, and is definitely worth upgrading.

Conclusions

At present, there is a significant growth in sales and market for commercial rifles and its accessories.

Due to the vast media coverage that the military enjoyed in the recent years, there has been a public clamor, not just for the rifle itself, but for tactical gadgets such as the red dot and reflex sights, scopes, laser spot, AN/PEQ tactical lights, combat grips, picatinny or tactical rails, bipods, and folding stocks.

The market is overflowing with such items as upgrades to existing rifle. You can readily convert the looks of your old AR-10 or AR-15 into their military versions by simply replacing the old hand guard with picatinny rail and by adding the accessories you want.

Most gun owners want to “militarize” their guns, not because they love the military, but for the sake of dressing the gun up.

For the ordinary people without any knowledge about guns and rifles, it is difficult to tell if the rifle is a military or a civilian version.

Is that an M16 or an AR-15? Lastly, there are no regulations on “militarizing” the rifle’s appearance or looks.

What Are Single Cam vs Dual Cam Bows?

Bow and arrow use has really evolved throughout the centuries. Being one of the primary weapons in war before, it has been relegated long ago to uses involving leisurely hunting and archery after the development of more lethal weapons such as rifles and guns.

Nowadays, there are many enthusiasts who prefer bow hunting over rifle hunting, considering the fact that bow hunting is more primitive and more exciting than rifle hunting. To some enthusiasts, it gives them a sense of primal power that they can never really get out of the use of a rifle as a weapon of hunting.

There are many forms of bows; however, if you are a bow hunting enthusiast, you are definitely cognizant of the two primary choices when it comes to bows, and these two choices are single cam vs dual cam bows.

The mechanics of how a bow works is not a complicated system. In most forms of bows, the essential mount of the bow contains the sights, quivers, stabilizers, and limbs. This mount is commonly called risers.

The limb is either mounted with a cam or a wheel, and the cam usually differs in design from one form of bow to another. The cam can be used to store energy to propel the arrow, and this process of storing energy on the cam is called bow eccentrics. There are different types of bow eccentrics and the two popular types of bow eccentrics are those of the single cam and the dual cam.

There are always questions as to which is better to use between single cam and dual cam bows. Although the argument is not that important, the answers, however, to the abovementioned questions lie in the understanding of the disparities between the single cam and the dual cam bows.

Single Cam Bows

Single cam bows have single cam or wheel on their limbs. This single cam is located at one of the limbs of the bow. The mechanism as to how the single cam works is similar to the way a dual cam bow works. However, here are some of the pros and cons regarding the use of the single cam over the dual cam.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DMIiVWdXc4

Advantages of using the single cam:

It doesn’t easily go out of tune: You need not worry about more often of any change in the flight of your arrow; hence, your arrow will not go astray. This also means that it is easier to keep in tune.
The single cam bow is quieter than that of the dual cam: This means that if you are going to engage in bow hunting, you got a better chance of not disturbing or alerting your target after you have let go of your arrow. This also means that you got a better chance of hitting your target after unleashing the arrow.
It is more precise: Since the single cam bow doesn’t easily go out of tune, you can definitely expect that you can have a more precise aim at your target than that of the dual cam.

Disadvantages of Single Cam Bows:

Single cams bows are a bit slower than those of dual cam bows: This means that if you want a more aggressive draw, you will surely find it more effortful than using a dual cam bow.

Dual Cam Bows

It is tempting to say that the dual cam bows have plenty of advantages over single cam bows. Dual cam bows definitely continue to improve making it almost maintenance free. Moreover, it is almost the same as the single cam bows. Since the evolution of the hybrid and binary cams, the seeming disadvantages of dual cam have been greatly diminished.

Advantages of Dual Cam bows: It is very fast: Since it has a level nock travel, it can give your arrow a smooth straight and level flight. Since there are two cams that work together to provide energy to your draw, you can surely create a stronger draw that provides a faster flight for your arrow.
Low Maintenance: The hybrid and binary cam systems almost eliminate the maintenance required for the dual cam bow
Shorter Strings Required: Since you are using two cams, you need less stretch and untwist. This means that you will definitely have a peep sight that is definitely more anchored.

Disadvantages of Dual Cam:

Noisier than single cam: This means that the let off is less smooth than that of the single cam. It likewise produces more sound than that of the single cam.

Conclusion about single cam vs dual cam bows:

The single cam vs dual cam debate has been widely discussed by bow hunters all throughout the world. Some bowhunters prefer the single cam over the dual cam, while others prefer the dual cam over the single cam. Yet, in the last analysis, these two types of bows are almost equal in appeal and versatility. There may be disparities between the two but everything boils down to the archer’s preference.

The Best Ways to Hunt and How to Kill a Bear

The more elusive and ferocious the big game is, the more exciting and invigorating the hunting process will be. This is definitely true for those who are engaged in big game hunting, especially, those who hunt bears whether these bears be Grizzly or brown bears. Bear hunting has already been one of the favorite sports of hunters since time immemorial.

In modern times, however, bears have been one of the favorite big games by hunters because of their ferocity and size. Game hunters, for example, experience more excitement in hunting black bears than the common white-tailed buck for the following reasons:

First, it is heftier and bigger than the white-tailed buck.
Second, it is heavily boned, and therefore, it is more difficult to hit the internal organs of bears than those of other big games.
Third, it is ferocious and huge, and can kill you easily if you don’t hit it fatally.
Moreover, bears have smaller heads, and it would be quite difficult to hit their heads than other big games.
Furthermore, bears are covered with thick and long hair, and hence it is quite difficult to specifically target a particular part of the bears’ body.

Best Weapons to Hunt Bears

There are many weapons that you can use to hunt bears, and of course, the best weapons would be those of bows and rifles. Both these weapons can inflict a fatal wound on bears as long as you know exactly where to fatally hit the bears. If you are going to use a bow, the ideal shot that you should use would be an arrow that can readily pierce through the lungs of the bear. It is likewise advisable to hit both lungs because bears can definitely run a distance even with only one lung functioning. A precise shot at the lungs of the bear with an arrow can surely drop dead a fierce bear. Furthermore, you can use any type of bow that can pierce through the lungs of the bear, whether the bow be single cam or dual cam.

Similarly, if you are using a rifle, the best shot would be through its lungs. It is critical that you are cognizant of the anatomy of the bear so that you can rightly aim at the parts of the bear that are vulnerable enough to cause it a sudden and abrupt death. The lungs of bears are located slightly farther back while their shoulders are a bit angled forward. Always remember that any hunter should aim at the quickest death of his or her prey as a general ethos of hunters. If you are using a rifle, you should carefully choose the right rifle for bear hunting. Your choice should depend on your ways of hunting, maneuverability and accuracy, versatile optics, and iron sights.

The Best Body Parts to Hit in order to instantly Kill a Bear

If you are engaged in bear hunting, you need to know where to hit the bear to instantly kill it. Moreover, it is also crucial that you get some of the helpful tips on how to fatally hit your prey.

1. Arrow or Bullet placement

Whether you are using an arrow or a rifle, it is important to know where you want to lodge the arrow or bullet on the body of the bear. Given the fact that you already got the best bow and arrow and rifle at hand, you still need to know where to aim the arrow or bullet on your target. This process is called bullet or arrow placement, and if you are seasoned hunter, you definitely know what part of the anatomy of the bear is the most vulnerable and can inflict immediate death when hit by an arrow or bullet. Hitting the bear in the heart or lungs can surely bring immediate death to the bear. Canadian bear hunters, for example, suggest that you should aim at the “middle of the middle” or at a point where front and hind legs intersect with back and the belly of the bear.

2. Develop marksmanship

Bears are ferocious animals, especially if it is enraged. For this reason, if you hit it, you should hit it fatally, otherwise, it will get back at you with more ferocity. Hence, you should know your most comfortable distance in hitting a bear. You should likewise know at what distance you are capable of hitting the specific area where you want to hit your target. In the case of bear hunting, you should know at what distance you can hit the lungs or heart of the bear efficiently and effectively. It is not a matter of knowing what furthest distance you can hit a target efficiently, but it is a matter of knowing at what distance you are most effective in hitting your bear

Using best shooting sicks to focus on your target is the best idea.

3. Fatal Lung shots

The most appropriate shot that you can engage in is the lung shots. If you hit a bear on its lungs, it is almost certain that the bear will drop dead, especially if you hit both lungs of the bear. It will seldom move or travel beyond 100 yards when you hit it on its lungs. Moreover, the lungs are bigger targets aside from being a deadly zone to hit. You also have very little margin of error when you aim for the lungs. On the one hand, if you shoot a bit low, you may hit the heart, and if you shoot a bit high, you will surely hit the shoulder which will also be quite debilitating to the bear. Likewise, if you miss the lungs by an inch, you will surely hit one of the vital organs of the bear such as the liver or any internal organ.

4. The Heart shots

Some hunters may deliberately aim for the heart of the bear, but it is too obvious that the heart is a more difficult target than the lungs. Likewise, the heart can be covered or hidden from sight by the upper legs of the bear. However, if you aim for heart, you definitely would hit one of the vital organs of the bear if you miss the heart by an inch. Hence, it is also a good target to aim at. You should bear in mind, however, that a bear shot in the heart usually travels farther than that of a bear shot in the lungs.

Other shots like neck and head shots and shoulder shots can also inflict major wounds on the bear. Moreover, these shots can also be fatal to the bear. However, in many instances, these shots do not bring immediate death to the bear, and for these reasons, bear hunters prefer to take aim at the lungs and the heart instead of aiming for the head, shoulders, and neck shots.