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What is the Best Scope for Ruger 10/22?

Perhaps the best part of using a rifle like the Ruger 10/22 is its sheer popularity among American shooters. The gun is very popular, and because of this, there are a variety of scopes and mod options that have become popular as well.

best scope for a Ruger 1022

Best scope for ruger 10/22 David Yonehara

I’ve been using a Ruger since my Dad first took me out hunting as a kid, and have become very familiar with the different scope options available.

Today, we’ll take a look at three options that are the best scope for a Ruger 10/22 and why they stand apart from others.

Top Our Pick For Best Scopes For Ruger 10/22 In 2017

Product Name

Quality

Our Rating

Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6 - 18x44mm AO Riflescope, DEAD-HOLD BDC (Editor's Choice)

A+

UTG 3-9X32 1" BugBuster Scope, AO, RGB Mil-dot, QD Rings (Good in price range)

A+

Nikon P-RIMFIRE Ii BDC 150 Rifle Scope

A

TascoRimfire Series 3-9x 32mm 30/30 Reticle

A-

Simmons 511039 3 - 9 x 32mm

A

Bushnell 613510B Rimfire Scope Matte Black Finish 

A

Top 6 Best Scopes For Ruger 10/22 On The Market

 

PRODUCT DETAILS    

Editor's Choice

DS-table-__image		 Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6 - 18x44mm AO Riflescope, DEAD-HOLD BDC
  • Strong accuracy
  • Strong handling of recoil and any vibrations
  • Seamless performance in inclement weather
 CHECK ON AMAZON

Good in price range

DS-table-__image		 UTG 3-9X32 1" BugBuster Scope, AO, RGB Mil-dot, QD Rings
  • Allows for simple and quick adjustable objectives
  • Built to eliminate aiming issues
  • It upholds through rain, fog, direct sunlight
 CHECK ON AMAZON
DS-table-__image Nikon P-RIMFIRE BDC 150 Rifle Scope
  • Arsenic-free
  • Zero reset is required on elevation and windage
  • Very accurate from 50 to 150 yards
 CHECK ON AMAZON
DS-table-__image TascoRimfire Series 3-9x 32mm 30/30 Reticle
  • HD vision is superb
  • Beautiful design
  • Built to last
 CHECK ON AMAZON
DS-table-__image Simmons 511039 3 - 9 x 32mm
  • Easy to adjust
  • Waterproof
  • Shockproof
 CHECK ON AMAZON
DS-table-__image Bushnell 613510B Rimfire Scope Matte Black Finish
  • Field-of-view range at 100 yards
  • Leupold’s incredible Quantum Optical System
  • Built for windage and weather
 CHECK ON AMAZON

This is my review about 6 scope for ruger 10/22 takedown on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:

1. Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6 - 18x44mm AO Riflescope, DEAD-HOLD BDC

Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6 - 18x44mm AO Riflescope, DEAD-HOLD BD

Vortex Optics Crossfire II 6 - 18x44mm AO Riflescope, DEAD-HOLD BD

If you’re looking for a best Ruger 10/22 scope that holds zero like an absolute rock, this is the one for you.

Many Ruger fanatics spend years looking for that extra bit of accuracy and momentum in the field, and Vortex Optics answered by taking a 12 and making it doable from further than a football field away.

They are also protected under caps, allowing for longevity and durability that entry level scopes can’t offer. 

Compared to other good scopes in its class, this one is the king. It easily stands its ground against top-notch offerings from elite manufacturers

This is what you’re getting with this product:

Up to 500 yards is no problem with strong accuracy. Any worries of missing turret clicks are eliminated by the recurring sound.
  • Strong handling of recoil and any vibrations
  • Seamless performance in inclement weather
  • One of the most consistent eye pieces on the market, even with rapid fire and movement with ruger 10/22 takedown
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2. UTG 3-9X32 1" BugBuster Scope, AO, RGB Mil-dot, QD Rings

UTG 3-9X32 1

UTG 3-9X32 1" BugBuster Scope, AO, RGB Mil-dot, QD Rings

There has been much debate about what is the best scope for a Ruger 10/22. We’re here to put an end to this argument. Hands down, the best scope for a Ruger 10/22 is the UTG 3-9X32 1" BugBuster Scope, AO, RGB Mil-dot, QD Rings.

Let’s break it down for any unfamiliar with the product:

  • If you find yourself setting up visibility for a particular situation only to find adverse weather or a change in plans, this scope is adjustable on the fly. It allows for simple and quick adjustable objectives for any range you’re shooting
  • Those needing to improve their aim will find this scope tightens any missteps in their process. The reticle is specifically built to eliminate aiming issues, with the added bonus of helping your overall performance
  • It upholds through rain, fog, direct sunlight, or just about any other weather condition

Among the scopes for a Ruger 10/22, this one stands apart for long-lasting, dependable performance.

Take it from a pro: there’s no sense wasting time and resources on flimsy pieces of crap. Go with the UTG BugBuster, hands down the best scope for a Ruger 10/22

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3. Nikon P-RIMFIRE BDC 150 Rifle Scope, Black

When looking to step up the scope game significantly, this best scope from Nikon for ruger 10/22 takedown is the perfect piece of equipment.

Open circle aiming points are very accurate from 50 to 150 yards (I’ve actually used it for shots that I estimated were up to 200, but not with the accuracy of under 150).

The crosshair is right in the line of vision and never blurry or faded, something that is frequently a problem with cheaper scopes.

  • The Nikon Eco-Glass lenses are arsenic-free. They also are incredibly vibrant when in front of the eye – I’ve never had any issues with reflection or fog
  • Zero reset is required on elevation and windage. After you’ve zeroed the scope, there shouldn’t be any adjustments necessary to keep it accurate unless the mounting is altered. Move a click up, and it can be easily reset
  • Nikon has perfectly engineered this scope for .22 ammunition, and there is no better weapon for .22 than the Ruger 10/22. It is the perfect combination

Make sure your on-hand mounts are made for the Ruger 10/22 – special order them if not.

Mounting and zero issues may result from mounts that are not for this specific rifle. Other than that, this is a solid scope and worth the spend.

My friend has bought a few of them for different .22s and always have been satisfied. If you’re looking to impress with a great gift, this is the best option available.

This is a good scope for ruger 10/22

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4. Bushnell 613510B Rimfire Scope with Dropzone 22 Reticle Matte Black Finish

Bushnell 613510B Rimfire Optics Scope

In varied weather conditions, accuracy and ease of use remain largely unaltered.

Visibility is strong as well, although they reach the mid-level in this field at best.

This scope is ideal for rim fire and quick adjustments for moving targets, even in changing conditions.

No other brand beats them on that front.

If Bushnell really wanted to conquer the market, they’d address this issue – but they’ve got their niche down and a following that stands by their products. In its class, this scope is a solid addition.

It’s funny, as it seems that scopes with the strongest visibility struggle with windage and vice versa.
  • Field-of-view range at 100 yards
  • Bushnell’s incredible Quantum Optical System, which optimizes imagery sighting from one side of vision thru the other
  • This scope is built for windage and weather will work perfectly with ruger 10/22

This is a good choice for your ruger 10/22 takedown

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5. TascoRimfire Series 3-9x 32mm 30/30 Reticle .22 Riflescope (Matte Finish)

TascoRimfire Series 3-9x 32mm better scope for the Ruger 10/22
TascoRimfire Series 3-9x 32mm 30/30 Reticle .22 Riflescope (Matte Finish)

The TascoRimfire Series is top of the line, all the way. You won’t find a better scope for the Ruger 10/22 in its price range

The HD vision is superb. It really hones in on far-away targets and holds the view long enough to pull the trigger and get a good shot. I’m a fan because of these features:

  • The ruger 10/22 optics are fully coated. I’ve never had any sight problems with this scope, even after using it in multiple lighting scenarios and times of day
  • The 50-yard parallax setting is standard and functional. Experienced shooters will find lines of sight to be as expected based on distance, terrain, and weather
  • The accuracy is spot on. Take it to the range once before heading out on a hunt and you’ll be completely comfortable with it

One thing I always suggest with this scope is to purchase a separate weaver rail to go along with it. You can get one that is of much higher quality, and will last longer, than the one that Tasco makes. Also, buy additional scope rings if you don’t have any on hand. They will be necessary for proper and secure mounting.

Another hint is to make sure everything is properly mounted and fastened, so that the reticle doesn’t move.

If you’re using this scope regularly, check the security of the mounting each time you head out.Be sure to test it at both close up and further away shooting distances to get comfortable before forming your final opinion on the scope. I found that it took a couple different scenarios before I fully grasped what it has to offer.

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6. Simmons 511039 3 - 9 x 32mm .22 Mag(R) Matte Black Riflescope

Simmons 511039 3 - 9 x 32mm .22 Mag(R) Matte Black Riflescope
Simmons 511039 3 – 9 x 32mm .22 Mag(R) Matte Black Riflescope

The Simmons Riflescope is built with optical glass lenses that, in my experience, are incredibly functional.

For an economical .22 scope such as this one, that feature really stands out.

Their HydroShield lens coating that they brag about is optimized as well. Two of the three scopes we’re talking about today are far from the high-end market, proving that best Ruger 10/22 scopes don’t have to break the bank.

The eyepiece is bright and vibrant, allowing for easy target sighting and zero fatigue when following a target or working to find the best shot location on the target. The clarity cannot be beat.

Here are the best features:

  • The mounting rings that come with the Simmons Riflescope are not well-suited to the Ruger 10/22. As typical, I suggest buying additional rings and weaver rail. It can be mounted
  • The rubber surface is easy to adjust, even in rain, heat, or damp conditions. Once zeroed, the scope is as accurate as anything on the market
  • It mounts to other options, but seems to be specifically designed for the Ruger 10/22 due to its popularity

Above all other scopes, this one gives the most bang for the buck. In the hunting world, that goes a long way because it allows more flexibility for other add-ons and modifications.

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Conclusion

There are a variety of best scopes for a Ruger 10/22 on the market . These three are all well-suited for action, whether that be the range or out in the hunting field. The trendiness of rimfire shooting has led to the development of a lot of new scopes, but I always stand by the old classics. For mounting help, check out this great video.:

If you will reference this article in your upcoming scope purchase, we’d love it if you shared what you found helpful via social media. That way, others can learn more about the scopes as well.

I’d love to hear which one you ended up going with. Feel free to leave a comment here with thoughts and we’ll get a conversation going.

How to Use Binoculars in the Right Way

Binoculars are the perfect addition to just about any outdoor activity. Hunting, fishing, bird watching, you name it. But do you know how to use binoculars?

Binoculars improve visibility and help the user specifically focus on their target. If taking a shot or observing an animal from afar, they improve accuracy over a long range. Here are the best practices for how to use binoculars.

Set up the binoculars for optimal use

  • Adjust the distance between the two eye barrels to be appropriate for your face. Binoculars will stretch or pull tighter and hold that position for use. If the binoculars aren’t property set to you, you will see black edges in the peripherals.
  • Use the neck strap. You don’t want to set the binoculars down and forget them or risk having the settings compromised. By strapping them around your neck, you can relax the set when not in use while still having it ready to go very quickly.
  • Preferably, purchase a pair of binoculars with a diopter. This allows the user to focus both eye pieces at the same time, as opposed to having to do the process twice and risk them not being set equally. This can cause blur or otherwise be distracting.
  • This video walks users through setting their binoculars.

Identify your target and focus

Before zooming in, figure out exactly what it is that you’re going to look at. To get set, pick a solid object up against a solid color. A building, tree, or tall plant set against a cloudless sky is perfect.

  • Turn the diopter or central focus wheel until the object is perfectly in focus. Be sure that both eyes are set and feel comfortable. If you’ve gone too far in, zoom back out. I always recommend testing a few settings, even after you’ve found one that feels great. That way, you are confident the setting used is the best one.
  • For fine focusing, close the right eye. Using only the left, adjust the diopter to the specific setting that feels perfectly in view. Be sure the object you are focusing on is in clear, fine focus.
  • If your eyes are strained or fatigued, re-adjust. There’s nothing wrong with using more than one focus setting throughout the day.

Clean the binoculars

After use, you’ll want to clean the binoculars for next time. This helps keep the set optimized for long term use. You’ll notice that dirty lenses make it incredibly hard to find the perfect zoom and focal points. This can lead to headaches and fatigue.

When cleaning, be careful not to scratch the lenses!

  • Using an eyeglass brush or cloth, wipe away any dirt or particles that have collected on the outside of the lends.
  • Use eyeglass solution to really get those lenses shining.
  • Look through the binoculars to ensure there are no smudges or streaks on the lenses.
  • Return the binoculars to their case and store them in a place that won’t get to hot or cold.
  • Here is a great video on cleaning binoculars.

In recent years, I’ve been using binoculars more and more to hone in my hunting and bird watching. A good pair really ups the visibility and improves accuracy with long range shooting.

Now that you’ve discovered the joy of using binoculars, please share this article on social media so that those closest to you can do the same! I love hearing about new tricks of the trade and activities, so feel free to comment as well.

Featured Image by Frankie Roberto

How to Adjust a Rifle Scope Like a Pro

John McStravick

The scopes of today’s era rifles adjust to point-of-impact specifications, which is a  huge plus for hunters and shooters because accuracy in long-distance shooting is improved tremendously. The scope has knobs on the top and bottom, both of which have significantly help to zero in your shot. Old timers like me learned to adjust a scope on Civil War-era weapons. Nowadays, it is much easier, but it still takes practice and precision. When learning how to adjust a rifle scope, just follow these steps and mix in a bit of personal comfort based on your weapon.

1

Getting Set Up

The first step to learning how to adjust a rifle scope is to have the correct tools.

Ensure that the scope is properly fixed to the barrel, and that you have a trusted rest in place.

Equally important is identifying the ammo you’ll use. The ammo that you adjust the scope with should be the SAME ammo you’re using in the field.

Here are the first steps:

  • Move the crosshairs. Based on the shooter’s ability to the bore, you’ll want to move the crosshairs so that they are in line with where he or she is at.
  • Zero the rifle at short distance. The first real step here is to align the barrel and scope. If you know your rifle, doing this is by bore sighting is doable. Place your rifle in a firm rest, and make sure the action is open. Set up a target that isn’t too far out (less than thirty yards) and preferable with some sort of a central mark or perfect shot marker on it. This allows you to align the barrel of your gun with the mark.
  • Note the erector tube. You don’t want the target image to appear upside down when viewed through the scope. This is the purpose of the erector tube. It will contain multiple lenses that adjust the image back and forth within the scope, ultimately presenting it as is. Don’t tighten the rings too much or else the erector tube won’t be as mobile inside the scope as it should be.
2

Fire Some Test Shots

This is how you’ll test your bore sighting skills. How close was the shot? Don’t worry if it was not even close, especially if this is your first time adjusting the scope on this gun. Make small movements to the scope to get that zero dialed in. Remember that a zero at 25 yards typically goes high at 100 yards, so if 100 yards is the target distance, adjust the scope to be about one inch lower than the zero at 25 yards.

  • Make small tweaks as necessary. If you’ve got the scope adjusted perfectly after less than five shots, you must know your rifle pretty well. When I’m working a new gun, I typically allow up to ten shots just so I can get a feel for the give and take.
  • Take windage into consideration. Are you shooting at a range, or out in the field? If out in the field, how well do you know the area, and more specifically, how your gun shoots in that climate?
  • Check the mounting. If you have continued problems getting the scope to zero and/or to a point of comfortability, it may be a result of sloppy mounting. I’ve had to take off and re-mount the scope on new rifles more than once, which taught me real quick that no two guns are exactly the same. Keep this in mind, and if you remember, double check the mounting before firing test shots.
3

Use Modern Guns And Scopes

This sounds like a picky thing to say, but as I said above, I grew up adjusting really old scopes and rifles. Today’s technology is so much better than what I grew up on, there isn’t any reason to not use the latest stuff available. Unless, of course, you’re a historian or antique gun fanatic! The scopes on modern guns have two adjustable knobs that make the process both easy and fun.

Variable scopes allow for less adjustment than fixed-power scopes, as a result of an extra cam tube. Referring to the erector tube, don’t force down on the variable scope at all while adjusting for risk of restricting it’s functions. If you have an Ar10, so you can find the best scope for an AR-10 to have the good shoot

Things To Consider When Choosing A Rifle Scope

Knowing how to adjust a rifle scope is fine, but your first priority is to make sure you have the right one. When you first get a scope, it might seem like the perfect fit. However, you’ll soon learn that the wrong equipment will give you trouble down the line. So before you find yourself readjusting on a regular basis, make sure you have the proper scope. Here are a few things to consider:

Get A Rifle Scope That Matches Your Needs

Rifle scopes are cool and I know you feel like a sniper in an action movie when you use it. However, getting the one with the most advanced features isn’t always the best choice. The most important thing is to find a scope that matches your rifle. Otherwise, it won’t operate properly—what good would that do you?

Read Reviews

No matter how fascinating the product description is on a rifle scope, the true test is its performance. Don’t get too eager and buy one before reading reviews. People tend to be brutally honest about their opinions on the items they’ve spent money on. Take some time weighing the pros and cons before making a decision.

Thoroughly Read Over All The Features

Some companies will hype up one feature and skimp on all the others. For instance, if a product description primarily focuses on magnification, that’s not good enough. The lens coating and optical quality really define whether a scope is worth it. Choose wisely.

The Difference Between Each Rifle Scope

I’m pretty sure you know what a rifle scope is used for. However, the more educated you are on them, the better.

Tactical Rifle Scope

A tactical scope generally has low magnification, and it’s used to extend the range of engagement. It moves the general 300 meters on an infantry rifle to 600 meters by using low magnification— without hindering the close-range capacity.

Hunting Rifle Scope

Most hunting scopes don’t have a lot of features and are relatively easy to use. They have to have a simple operation so they are more manageable in the woods. It’s common for hunting scopes to either be a power or fixed power, but they’ll usually have a bigger objective—it allows in more light for a clearer and brighter view.

Competition Rifle Scope

Large scopes are great for challenges and many are used to shoot in low powered .22 competitions—which require precise accuracy. If you have a 40x scope, it’s only useful in competitions. Otherwise, you can use one that’s less durable and has less light transition.

Final Thoughts On How To Adjust A Rifle Scope

Brian Bennett

From there, it’s all step and repeat. With each new scope, I recommend repeating this process to make sure that the scope is a) mounted correctly, and b) zeroed correctly.

Just like guns, scopes are all different. Gradually move your testing target further away as you get more comfortable with the scope.

Because this is so important, I ask that all readers who enjoyed this article take a moment to share it on social media or with family and friends that are avid shooters. Shooter should buy the best handgun safe for the money to keep family safe from your gun.

I’m all ears for tips that you’ve found for specific scopes, so feel free to leave a comment.

 

 

How to Sharpen a Broadhead

When it comes to bagging a deer, having a sharp broadhead is just as important as mastering the art of long-range archery. Without a good blood trail, locating your kill or wounded deer can prove to be quite difficult. A sharp broadhead will puncture the flesh and skin more directly and completely then a dull one, causing more blood and faster bleed out. It’s very similar to any type of sharp knife – the sharper the blade, the harder the bleeding. Here are the best practices for how to sharpen a broadhead.

Identify which type of broadhead you are using and assemble the tools

A fact that many new archers don’t realize is that most broadheads require at least a small bit of sharpening to reach optimum performance. If you’ve bought the kind that are manufactured specifically to be incredibly sharp and not need sharpening, you’re off the hook for now.

I’d venture to say that a vast majority of broadheads will need at least a quick tune-up before being ready to hit the field.

I recommend using broadhead arrows when hunting because they penetrate much better than other arrow types, and are also more accurate. Now that we’ve identified the broadhead type, let’s make sure that all necessary tools are on-hand:

  • Broadhead sharpener. These can be picked up at a hunting store or online. It’s worth it to buy a decent one for the garage if you plan to bow hunt regularly. Small, cheaper ones are also available for use on the go if that’s more your style.
  • Sharpening stone. If you don’t have a specified broadhead sharpener, a sharpening stone can get the job done. You’ll have to exercise more control and precision here. Obviously, you don’t want to cut yourself.

Sharpening with a broadhead sharpener

I keep a dedicated sharpener at home, as I don’t really like to do it on the fly or use equipment that isn’t meant for the task. The first step, before any sharpening takes place, is to install the broadhead onto the arrow to make sure it fits properly. Once you’ve got the head onto the arrow, we’re ready to use the sharpener. This tool allows users to hold the arrow by the end near the broadhead. You’ll want to get a secure grip on it using both hands.

  • Place the arrow in the center of the two plates at the top of the sharpener. The broadhead should be on top of the plates.
  • Sharpen the head by running it along the plates, much like you would a kitchen knife on one of those automatic sharpeners. It’s important not to counteract your sharpening by going back the other way.
  • Run it along from the back of the broadhead in towards the tip. This always seems to give more control over the action, in addition to optimizing the sharpening process.
  • Check the head for sharpness by lightly rubbing your finger along it at a perpendicular angle. Again, keep in mind that this is similar to a sharp kitchen knife- if you scrape too hard or the wrong way, you’re going to cut your finger open. I’m not going to sit here and tell you precisely when the head is ready. When it’s sharp enough, you’ll know.
  • If you are using top of the line arrowheads, I highly encourage you to use a dedicated sharpener. This will improve the life of the arrowheads, maintain accuracy, and ensure the best job of sharpening is done.

Sharpening using a whetstone or other file

If you aren’t keen on spending some cash on a nice sharpener, a whetstone will do the trick. Just file the headstone as you would anything else on the whetstone. 3 pronged broadheads are tough to do on a surface like this, but other than that you shouldn’t have any problems.

I don’t recommend doing this with top-notch broadheads, for risk of damaging them and having to spend a bunch of money replacing them. But if you’re out in the field or on a camping trip, having a portable way to sharpen the heads is typically better than nothing.

A bastard file is my favorite of these. Approach it like you’re using a dedicated sharpener, with the broadhead attached to the arrow, and file like you would anything else on there. Again, pretty tough with three-pronged heads, but you get the gist. You can take the bastard file anywhere: keep in your pocket or in your satchel.

Conclusion

Broadheads can be sharpened in a number of ways. Ever since I was a kid, I’ve been taking the extra time to keep the heads sharp and clean. Accuracy is your best friend when out in the field, and leaving a solid trail of blood to track down the animal is going to make the entire process easier.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this article on how to sharpen a broadhead. Please share on social media so that your friends and family can learn the benefits, and feel free to leave a comment. I’d love to get a discussion going.

How to Attract Deer to Your Yard

Some of us are fortunate enough to live the dream, with a nice open piece of property behind our home. Perfect for fishing, backyard camping, and of course, observing nature. For the latter, you’ll need to know how to attract deer to your yard.

I live in a house that backs up to a vast landscape of hunt-able land.  Over my twenty years here, I’ve mastered several techniques that draw deer in and keep them around. The best part is that once a few deer come in, more always follow.

5 Tips to Attract Deer

Let’s take a look at my 5 techniques.

1. Increase the amount of shrubbery in your yard

This is key, as deer are constantly grazing. The more natural in appearance the plant life, the more deer will be attracted to it. Having shrubbery native to your area is equally as effective. For how to attract deer to your yard regularly, follow these tips:

  • Tall shrubs work the best in attracting deer to your yard. Taller plants can spread their seed further, which encourages additional growth as well as brings in wildlife that pick up on the smell.
  • The more unkempt the shrubbery, the more natural it will appear to the deer. This will pique their interest more than perfectly planted lines of bushes and plants.
  • This video shows a particularly effective deer attractant

2. Keep a calm and serene environment

Deer are skittish animals. They spook easily, and certainly won’t hesitate to bolt if they feel at all threatened. To attract deer to your yard, you’ll want to keep a quiet, peaceful environment. Minimize noise escaping from the home.

Along the same line, don’t have loud birdfeeders or clanging wind chimes hung from the porch. Deer feel comfortable solely in natural settings free from outside distractions.

Reducing the ‘barrier to entry’ helps as well. Deer aren’t going to hop over a tall fence that they can’t see through. Do everything you can to meld your yard in with the natural settings beyond your property.

They also aren’t going to approach bright light, so turn off your porch lights when not in use and don’t have unnecessarily bring or shiny objects sitting around. We’ve all seen how deer act when they are caught in headlights. The initial freezing, followed by a quick escape as soon as they feel threatened.

3. Have water available for the deer

If you’ve got a small pond in your yard like I do, then you’re in luck here. Mine is a natural water source, I don’t even have to feed water into it. The deer love it because it is exactly what they are used to.

If you haven’t got a pond, consider adding a water fixture of some type. Even if it isn’t natural (such as a bath or fresh water pool), you will still find that it attracts deer.  Avoid chlorinated pools, or anything with a bunch of chemicals in it. The point is to offer the deer a place to refresh and have a drink, and they can smell that chlorine a mile away.

  • If you live in an area with a strong winter, keep logs of wood in the water to prevent it from freezing.
  • Replenish the supply consistently so the deer come to trust the water source.

4. Have a large salt lick or other food source

To get deer into your yard, having a large salt lick for them to taste is a great idea. They smell it, which brings them in from afar. Once they’ve tasted it, they will continue coming back for it and may even hang around for a bit. This is particularly true if you have a water feature for them to enjoy – we all know how salt makes us thirsty.

I don’t recommend putting the salt lick on your porch. Deer will be more hesitant to approach if it’s that close to the house. They’ll like it more if it’s out in the yard, maybe on a fence. Or, better yet, right next to the water source.

  • If you can’t get ahold of a salt lick, a mineral block or other block high in sodium will suffice.
  • Keep it away from areas of heavy movement. No dogs, children, or other ornery activity should happen near the salt lick.
  • Corn feeders also work great. I have both a salt lick and a few corn feeders in my back yard. This gives the deer an easy source of food, which gives them (and their pack) ample reason to return again and again.
  • Deer love oak trees. Dotting your property with oaks will attract large numbers of deer. They feed on the twigs and leaves, as well as the acorns found on the tree.

5. Install grasses that deer love

There are a handful of grass types that deer love to graze. A good thing about grasses is that it will attract them from quite a distance and, if you have enough of it, keep them coming back despite the other techniques listed here. If you live in an area where it is possible to use one of these, then go for it:

  • Bluegrass
  • Wheat
  • Fescue
  • Minimize the amount of pesticides and chemicals in the grass, so as not to turn the deer away.

Ferns will also attract deer to your yard. Keep these ferns in shady spots, and do everything you can to help them thrive. The better the ferns, the higher the odds the deer will be attracted to them.

Now you have a basic understanding of how to attract deer to your yard. Hopefully, you live in an area surrounded by wildlife already – your chances of attracting deer are very high if you follow these steps. If you have any tips or techniques that you’d like to share, please leave them in the comments here so we can get a discussion going. If you found this article helpful, feel free to share on social media. Keeping deer around the yard is relaxing and surprisingly not that hard to do, it just takes some persistence!

Featured Image by glasgows

Which Shotgun Choke is the Most Open?

Which shotgun choke is the most open? For those of us in the firearms community, the term ‘pattern’ is something that arises frequently. This refers to the column of round shot pellets leaving the barrel of the gun. As they move further away, they begin to spread out. Towards the end of the shotgun’s range, targets will be missed by the pellets as they spread further apart.

The shotgun choke is the response of gun designers in their attempt to combat this effect. Choking means that the bore is restricted, which will keep the pattern closer together for longer distances.

Which shotgun choke is the most open?

The most open shotgun choke is called a ‘cylinder.’ The easiest way for you to analyze this is to look at the muzzle end of the barrel. You’ll notice that with cylinder chokes, there actually isn’t any constriction at all. The diameter of the choke is the same as the inside of the shotgun barrel. There is the lowest amount of bore reduction.

Restriction is essentially non-existent here, which causes the pattern to spread out much more so than with higher restriction chokes.

The tightest kind of shotgun chokes are called ‘extra tights.’ These are basically the opposite of a cylinder choke. Restriction of the pattern’s spread is maximized, for increased long-range target accuracy.

For larger game, tighter chokes can help with targets on the move and further away. But for me, it’s been many years since I’ve used a tight choke. I don’t do much other than duck hunting anymore. I’ve got a buddy who is a diehard fan of turkey hunting, and he prefers to use a tight choke. Here is a great video explaining shotgun chokes with visuals.

If you are using a shotgun and want to go deer hunting, choose the best scope for shotgun for deer hunting, and you will not regret it.

Why do I want to use a looser choke?

The biggest advantage to using a looser choke is seen particularly by duck hunters. With waterfowl, a super tight choke can have two effects when using steel pellets (lead pellets were outlawed by the federal government for waterfowl hunting in the nineties):

  • Potential damage to the barrel. Steel can damage the barrel because it isn’t as malleable as lead. It doesn’t cooperate as well with tight chokes.
  • It can harm the meat on the animal. Obviously, if you’re hunting for food, you don’t want the meat to be tarnished by the shot.
  • I really like the way these guys explained why they use certain chokes on duck hunts.:

So, to prevent these two things from happening, waterfowl hunters began using more open chokes. Hence, the rising popularity of the cyclinder.

I first began to prefer an open choke shortly after the regulations took place in 1991. By the following season, I began noticing severe distress to the barrel of my shotgun. This began to have a great impact on my hunting, so I started using the cyclinder choke.

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Ever since, I’ve been working on ways to maximize my shooting accuracy with the most open choke, and have gotten a lot better. It takes an immense amount of practice, but at the end of the day I have better meat resulting from my increased shooting skill level. All without damaging the barrel of my gun.

The bottom line

When selecting the best choke for your shotgun, the most important factor is to consider what type of game you are hunting. For turkeys and larger game birds, a tighter choke is going to be the better option.

For those of us duck hunters, the cyclinder is the most open shotgun choke and therefore the best for us. I always recommend heading to the range and spending ample time on the patterning board prior to hitting the field. Notice how the pellets strike the target, and adjust your shooting technique as necessary.

Many new hunters don’t realize the advantages of using an open choke on their shotgun when waterfowl hunting. I’d appreciate it if you shared this article on social media so that more new hunters can learn of the pros and cons of different chokes. Do you have any techniques you’d like to share? Go ahead and leave them here in the comments, and we’ll get a discussion going.

Featured Image by Keith Riley-Whittingham

What is the First Step in Cleaning a Firearm?

Perhaps your firearm has been on a good adventure with you, or maybe you just bought it and want to make sure it is ready for the field. So what is the first step in cleaning a firearm?

You’ll want to make sure the process is done correctly so as not to damage the weapon or cause rust. It took me several cleaning processes before I really felt comfortable with cleaning my firearm. Today, I’ll show you my process and the best practices for keeping that gun clean.

Buy a cleaning kit.

These can be pretty simple. You’ll want to make sure that you have these items:

  • Bore brush
  • Oil
  • Rag
  • Cotton swabs
  • Ample lighting in the leaning area
  • Patch holder with patches

Have a good commercial solvent

Basically, a solvent is a substance that has the ability to dissolve something else. This is incredibly important when cleaning a firearm. Unlike washing dishes or cleaning most other things, a simple rub down with some soap isn’t going to cut it here.

  • Use a garage or other area with open doors/windows to keep fresh air flowing in.
  • Clean all metal parts of the firearm thoroughly with the commercial solvent. Make sure the barrel is getting a good clean as well.
  • Clean the bore up through the breech end, wherever possible. Spend ample time here making sure that the bore is as clean as the barrel and rest of the metal parts on the weapon.
  • Run the dry patch through to double check for cleanliness. Let the area dry before proceeding.

Stick an oily patch into the barrel

The goal here is to get it nice and lubed up. Apply a liberal dose of oil onto the patch and slide it back and forth in the barrel of the gun, ensuring the entire area is reached. Any parts of the gun that are metal should receive a light coating of oil. Here is a great video on how to clean a firearm. It should go without saying, but always make sure your gun is unloaded before starting this process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHQKm-Z9x2E
  • This is when you use the patches inside the barrel to get it clean

Store the firearm in a horizontal position

This will help it dry and keep the oil on all parts that need it. If storing firearm horizontally is a challenge, face the muzzle down so that any run-age will come out of the barrel instead of clogging the back end. If you have a gun rack, I always suggest designating a specific place for firearms that have just been cleaned. The best gun safe is my recommendation.

  • Do not leave the weapon laying on its side on a table or counter.
  • Do not store vertically with the butt of the gun facing down.

Prior to firing the gun, run a clean patch through the barrel

This removes any excess oil or dirt. It makes sure that everything will go smoothly when firing, and that there aren’t any clogs or backlogs within the barrel. Here are a few tips I have for streamlining your firearm cleaning process:

  • Keep oil on hand at all times. Have it designated as only for cleaning your firearms, that way you won’t use it for anything else. Storing it in the gun safe or in the same general area as your guns will make sure that you always know where it is, and no one else is using it for other purposes.
  • Get into the habit of cleaning your firearms regularly. When starting the first step in cleaning a firearm, always follow the same procedure. There shouldn’t be any variations when cleaning the same gun. Consistency is key!
  • Dedicate a rag for the task. Always keep it on hand with the oil.

There you have it. If someone asks you what is the first step in cleaning a firearm, you can point them to this article.

I hope you found this informative. If so, we’d appreciate it if you shared on social media. If you have any tips for cleaning a firearm that we didn’t mention here, feel free to leave a comment. Let’s get a discussion going.

Featured Image by Ben Branam

How to Start A Fire With Sticks: Survival 101

One of the most common questions in the world of camping and sportsmanship is how to start a fire with sticks. It’s a professional maneuver—any miscalculation or deviation from the correct process makes it nearly impossible to do.

There are three basic formulas, which I’ll explain later. Each of the steps takes time, and it took me almost an entire summer of trying before I even got one fire started. But with patience, comes reward. Keep that in mind.

How to Start a Fire With Sticks

Here are the three methods for how to start a fire with sticks.

1. Hand Drill Method

For this technique, make sure you have a large quantity of tinder—the friction depends on it to keep the ember alive and turn it into a flame.

Gather some grass, pieces of shrubbery, cattails, small bits of wood,  or anything that burns easily.

Pile them all together into a nice mass of burnable material.

You’ll need what’s called a spindle, basically a thin, round, but sturdy piece of wood, and a baseboard as well. Here we go:

  • Cut a divot into the side of the baseboard, running its height. You can start with a V-shaped notch and then make it slightly deeper with a knife. Put a piece of tinder, like a wood shaving or leaf, underneath the notch to catch ember.
  • Firmly put the spindle piece into the notch. Roll it between your hands without letting it move out of the notch. You’ll want to apply as much downward pressure as you can while moving the spindle between your palms.
  • The goal is to get the tip of the spindle to ember itself by turning into a glowing red color. When this happens, try to spread the ember onto the piece of tinder you’ve placed underneath the baseboard.
  • Move the ember to your tinder pile, and employ a good deal of blowing in an attempt to produce a flame. Here is a great video tutorial:

2. Bow Drill Method

With this method, you’re going to start with the same expansive pile of tinder and employ the exact techniques we discussed in the previous section. The bow drill method is a little more advanced and requires better ‘on-the-fly’ woodworking skill— it also has a slightly higher success rate.

  • Start the same way as with the hand drill method, by cutting the notch into your baseboard of wood.
  • You’ll need a crossbar or ‘bow’ shaped piece of wood to connect it to your spindle by using rope other pieces of thin wood to tie it together.
  • Attach a small, solid piece of wood on top of the spindle to act as a handle for downward pressure.
  • Place your knee or another heavy object on the baseboard to weigh it down so that it won’t shift during the fire-starting process.
  • Apply pressure to the handle, forcing the spindle down into the notch in the baseboard.
  • Simultaneously pull the bow back and forth to create friction. The goal here is to create the same amount of friction as you would in the hand drill method of how to start a fire with sticks. This technique doesn’t wear your hands out—hence the bow.
  • Keep going until you’ve got an ember on the bottom of the spindle, then transfer that ember to your small piece of tinder underneath. Next, add it to the large pile of tinder. Once you’ve got the mound of tinder at an ember, blow on it to birth a flame.

This video walks you through the steps.

3. Fire Plow Method

This is the most basic way to start a fire with sticks, but also the most complicated. The fire plow method is essentially just rubbing two sticks together until you get an ember. Let’s outline the best approach for using this method (with the hope that it won’t be a last-ditch effort!)

  • Widdle one stick down to a dull point using the smaller of the two pieces of wood.
  • The other piece should be larger and more sturdy. it serves as the base— in other words, it’s the matchbox. Cut a groove vertically down the log near the top to near the bottom.
  • The goal is to ‘plow’ the smaller piece of wood repeatedly in the groove of the larger piece, creating an ember which will then be transferred to your tinder pile. You’ll want to make sure that the widdled piece is as hot as possible. The transfer to the tinder pile is direct from the wood, and there is no intermediary when using this technique. Here is a great video on the fire plow method:

How to Start a Fire with Sticks: Best Practices

Knowing how to start a fire with sticks is hopefully something you won’t have to stress about anymore. All three of these techniques require patience, an immense amount of practice, and repetition. I recommend working on them in your yard or on a camping trip several times. That way, you’ll have the techniques down pat if you find yourself stranded in the wilderness.

Gather a bunch of loose wood and burn-ables, and keep them on-hand for practice. You’ll need several trial runs to learn what works best for the tinder and what you should keep out. I also recommend practicing your blowing techniques; even if it’s just on your wood-burning fireplace in the living room.

If you become a master at any of these techniques, you should consider teaching lessons to everyone you know – you may end up saving their life!

Reasons Why You Should Know How To Start A Fire With Sticks

It might be a little challenging to learn how to start a fire with sticks, but don’t throw in the towel. It might seem as if you’d never have to put the skill to use, but that’s not true. You never know what situation you’ll find yourself in— you might decide to be a contestant on Survivor. However, even if you never find yourself running through the wilderness with cameras filming—you still need to know how to start a fire. Here are a few examples of why:

Purifying Water

When you’re out in nature, there’s obviously no water purifier. If you run out of water, you’ll need a backup plan; the last thing you want is to be out in the wild and be sick. The best way to purify water is to boil it—which requires a fire.

Emergency Signals

This one is a biggie because if you ever find yourself stranded, you’ll need to signal for help. Not only that but if there’s an injury or other dire emergencies, the fire will attract attention. Furthermore, smoke rises high which provides a better chance of others spotting your location.

Cooking Food

No stove doesn’t have to mean no food, and when you’re in the wild sustenance is key. Sure, you can grab a few canned goods and eat that, but even that would taste better warmed. You’ll need plenty your strength out in the wild, so the better quality of food that you eat, the better. If you put a few fish or other meats over the fire, you’ll have more energy.

Cleaning and Drying Clothes

It’s inevitable that you’ll get dirty and wet while in Mother Nature. If you have to clean your clothes, you can always place in them in hot water and then hang them over the fire to dry. Not to mention, you’ll need to wash body as well. Putting a bucket of water over a fire provides hot water to wash your face, hair, and hands.

Ward Off Insects and Animals

Lighting a fire is a good way to prevent insects and animals from invading your space. The wild is their territory, so they move about as they please— but of course, that’s bad news for you. Fire serves as a security barrier because it keeps pests from coming too close, and it provides light so you can see if there’s a threat nearby.

Warmth

When the temperature is frosty outside, your survival skills will kick in quickly. Sleeping under the stars in freezing weather is a recipe for illness, hypothermia, and even frostbite. A warm, toasty fire is your best defense against unbearable conditions.

Sterilization

Last but not least, building a fire helps to sterilize blades, utensils, and other equipment. Also, injuries are very common in the wild, and you don’t want to get an infection from dirty tools. If you have to sterilize cut, place the equipment into boiling water or into open flames.

How to Make a Tinder Bundle

One of the primary ingredients to creating a successful fire is a tinder bundle. Basically, it’s a group of small, flammable fibers that are easy to ignite. If natural materials are scarce, you can use a rope to create to your nest—make sure it’s made of twine. It’s important to use the proper materials, so if you don’t have twine fibers, gather some jute, cotton, hemp, sisal, or other natural fibers. Here’s how to make a tinder bundle nest:

  • Cut off a little piece of rope about six inches long.
  • Hold each end of the piece, and twist it backwards until it starts to create individual fibers.
  • Gently form them into a ball.
  • Place your source of fire into the middle of the tinder bundle and blow it into a flame.

If you happen to have a form of moisturizer like Vaseline or Chapstick, rub it on the fibers so they become more flammable and last longer.

Final Thoughts On How To Start A Fire With Sticks

Starting a fire with sticks is one life skill that definitely is good to master before you have to put it to the test. If you have any tips on how these methods have worked for you, please share in the comments so that others can learn them and employ them in their fire starting. I’ve been doing this for twenty years and just recently feel like I’ve gotten pretty good at it. Sadly, most people don’t know how to start a fire with sticks, so please share this on social media so that we can grow awareness. Good luck!

Featured Image by Lance Fisher

When Do Bowsights Work Best?

Bow hunting is a whole different animal from other forms of the sport. I was attracted to it immediately, the second I held my dad’s bow in my hands for the first time. It’s so real – I’ve always felt a deeper connection to the land when I’m not hunting with an expensive rifle. The problem is, it can be hard to aim accurately with a bow in certain situations. The scope on a gun has all but eliminated sight problems, and bow sights aim to do that with bows. But https://www.dailyshooting.com/?p=448&preview=true“>when do bow sights work best?

1. When you’re not on level ground.

This is when I’ve found bow sights to work the best. They give you the ability to line up the appropriate sight pin on your target. As opposed to a bullet, which enters the body having the same impact as the bullet is rounded, bows are pointed. For maximum impact, you want the arrow to be as close to level and straight up-and-down as you can. When on slanted earth, this can be very tricky. Use a bow sight to:

  • Know the approximate degree/angle that you’re shooting from, so that you can correct as necessary.
  • See whether your target is on any type of slope. Also, whether or not the target is moving in a tilted manner or otherwise performing an action that might throw off the equilibrium of your shot.
  • Go even further by precisely aiming for the right spot on the target, despite any slope in your position or the target’s position.
  • These factors can eliminate the need for you to reposition yourself, which is particularly useful if you are in an area very dense with plants or other rustling, loud objects such as fallen leaves.

2. Ensuring that your bow is held in the right place.

When do bow sights work best for actual handling of your bow? Pretty much all the time, because they allow you to know immediately if you’re at an odd angle with the target. If you are shooting over multiple ridge lines, downslope, or upslope, bow sights work to better your odds of properly handling your bow for the situation.

  • Even for beginning hunters, bow sights help with handling because they make it very obvious if you aren’t https://www.dailyshooting.com/best–shooting–sticks–reviews/“>holding your bow the right way.
  • Bow sights help the shooter identify and utilize the correct anchor point.
  • They help immensely with aiming, as well as steadying the bow for an accurate shot.
  • They make it obvious if you are shaking or jolting the bow around to the point where your shot will be directly impacted. Here is a video on a 3-pin hunting bow sight.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kh6AgTxDeg[/embed]

3. When you have the perfect fit for your hunting style.

Do you prefer a fixed pin bow sight or a single pin moveable slider? After trying out the two and identifying your favorite, you will be a lot more comfortable using your bow out in the field that you were without a bow. Personally, I’m all for the fixed pin, because I’m used to its aiming and positioning now so I can properly place myself for each shot. I use the second and third pins most of the time. Here are some situations where one is better than the other, however:

  • Single pin is better when you aren’t quite as sure about your distance from the target. You can adjust it a little higher if the target is further away than originally thought.
  • Fixed pin is much better for short-distance shooting. After some practice, you’ll know almost instantly https://www.dailyshooting.com/best–gun–safe–reviews/“>which pin to use based on how far away the target is. This article explains some times when you should and shouldn’t use a bow sight.
  • Both can be useful when shooting over uneven terrain. Take an extra moment (if you can) to get the perfect placement on the pin so that you’re not focusing on anything on the ground.

4. When you have an estimated distance between yourself and the target.

Speaking of short and long-distance shooting, when do bow sights work best all of the time? When you’re confident about how far away the beast is from you. https://www.dailyshooting.com/single–cam–vs–dual–cam–bows/“>Bow sights are impeccable for aiming help when you’re in a blind spot and have been tracking the animal for a bit.

They are also great if you’re in other hidden areas, such as up in a tree or shooting from a risen platform. The entire point of a bow sight is to increase your accuracy on a calculated distance, so the more familiar you are with your shooting location, the more you’ll be able to lean on your bow sight for that perfect shot.

  • When starting out with bow hunting, do some practice without a bow sight until you have some basic skill at gauging distance. Then try using a bow sight and see how much easier it makes everything.
  • For blind spots, I always recommend using a bow sight. Particularly when large branches, water, or other hazards are between you and the target.
  • When hunting big game like deer and elk, bow sights are incredible because they help you zero in on the specific part of the animal that you’re intending to hit.
  • On the other hand, with smaller game, bow sights aren’t as necessary unless you’re needing assistance getting the shot line up.

Conclusion

The basic gist of when do bow sights work best is basically a combination of the distance and the difficulty of the shot. If you know how far away the animal is, use a bow sight! If you aren’t sure or are still trying to get a hold on distance acquisition, try some shooting without one. I’d urge you to always have bow sight skills in your bag of tricks, in case the opportunity calls. Better to be safe than sorry!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and know when to use a bow sight. Please feel free to leave a comment and chime in on the discussion, and as always, give this article a share on social media so as to increase hunter awareness- always a good thing.

Featured Image by https://www.flickr.com/photos/widnr/6545500709/“>Wisconsin

What is a Safe Way to Unload a Muzzleloader?

One of the more common questions that new hunters have is ‘what is the safe way to unload a muzzleloader?’

When it comes to muzzleloaders, conventional firearm wisdom is somewhat bullet and propellant charge are loaded in through the muzzle, or open front end, of the gun.

I’ve owned one since my 21st birthday, when my grandpa gifted me the one that belonged to his dad. He also gave me a good lecture on unloading a muzzleloader, which I’m going to pass along to you today.

Historical value

These firearms are immensely popular amongst fans of old westerns, war flicks, and historical battles. The one I got from my grandpa is one of these, in fact it was built in the 1800s.

Muzzleloaders are often used in reenactments and theatrical settings, depicting the guns of old. Despite their historical value, muzzleloaders can be incredibly difficult to unload.

If you have never used one before, watch some old flicks of them in action and take notes on the loading and unloading processes that the shooters follow.

Learning the muzzleloader.

Muzzleloaders are more challenging to use than traditional rifles and guns. It is important to only use black powder with these weapons, anything else can be unsafe. These guns are loud, so always wear protection. Muzzleloaders need to be cleaned after every time they are shot. If attempting to clean a loaded weapon, there’s a great chance that you’ll severely injure yourself or cause structural damage.

  • They also are designed for practicality, not comfort. You don’t want to let the black powder set overnight. Load, and unload, all in the same session, each and every time.
  • If the black powder stiffens, it will have a dramatic effect on accuracy.
  • They can kick like mule (at least by rifle standards) and unless you’re using a modern version, don’t have much as far as ‘amenities.’ Be prepared for a very traditional and basic shooting experience, and be ready to spend some time unloading the weapon.

Remove the breech plug.

These days, most muzzleloader enthusiasts are firing modern in-line muzzleloaders. Unloading this type of firearm is significantly more safe and less time consuming than older muzzleloaders. It doesn’t take any special equipment or training, other than what you can learn quickly from an experienced shooter.

  • All you have to do is remove the breach plug.
  • Once you’ve done that, just push the projectile and the powder out the rear of the barrel.
  • After you’ve done this, load the ramrod (or loading rod) into the barrel. This step is critically important because otherwise, the touchhole may become blocked by random objects during storage. Or, even during a resting period between shooting sessions – this can happen very quickly.
  • These tips are specifically for unloading the muzzleloader without firing the bullet out. See below for tips on unloading through firing, and also check out this video:

With a CO2 Discharger.

Perhaps the best way to unload a traditional (read: older) muzzleloader is with this method. Take your ready to use discharger and use one of the following methods:

  • Press the discharger against the touchhole, if you are using a flintlock muzzleloader.
  • If the gun is a percussion lock muzzleloader, place the discharger over the nipple and safely discharge the barrel.

Be very careful with CO2, and always apply it to the right area depending on your weapon. If you aren’t sure which type of muzzleloader you have, do some internet research to find out before cleaning and unloading. Here is a great video on this.:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTF5oEzto5k

Discharging the muzzleloader into a backstop.

This is the most entertaining way to unload a muzzleloader. Shoot the gun into a safe backstop that won’t deflect the bullet back at you or at someone (or something) else. If at a range, this is easily done by simply firing the weapon in the appropriate area. Shoot the muzzleloader into a thick, cushioned setup that is prepared to handle bullets.

If you happen to be out in the wilderness, be very careful and mind these steps:

  • Don’t fire into the ground. This is literally the stupidest thing you could ever do. The projectile may bounce right back up at you, or a member of your party, or strike a dog that is unaware of what’s going on.
  • Likewise, don’t fire into the air either. If you’ve ever heard the old saying “what goes up, must come down,” then you know what I’m talking about. It’s doubtful that you have the inward geometrical skillset to calculate exactly where that bullet is going to land.
  • Because muzzleloaders are so popular with target shoots, use the target as a backstop in those situations.

Break Down

There you have it, the three best practices for how to unload a muzzleloader. As with any gun situation, be careful and follow instructions. I always recommend either reading the manual on your gun, or doing some online browsing to find out as much information as you can about your specific weapon. This is especially true for older guns – they aren’t always as consistent as newer streamlined versions, and each individual one may have its own quirks and funky movements.

When it’s time to store the muzzleloader, make sure the ramrod is in the barrel. Always lean the gun up against a solid and clean rest. You’ll want to make sure that no debris or dirt gets into the barrel, because this can prevent the gun from firing the next time around.

Conclusion

This about does it. I always keep my muzzleloader on its perch in my garage, lifted off the ground so no dirt from the floor gets in there. I’m interested in how easily you were able to unload a muzzleloader the first time- feel free to leave a comment below. And if you have any additional storage tips, I’d love to hear those as well. If this article was helpful to you, please share on Facebook and Twitter, as anything we can do to improve hunter safety is better for everyone. Thanks, and happy unloading!

Featured Image by Joe Goldberg

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