Full Metal Jacket vs Hollow Point: When to Use Each and Why?

Full metal jacket or hollow point? This frequent topic of debate is one of the few gun-related topics that actually has fact-based evidence to support both sides of the argument.

I love hollow point bullets and carry them in my concealed weapon. I also like to use them out in the field, and will get into the reasons why in this article.

What many people don’t understand is that there are significant differences between these types of bullets. Let’s take a look at what those differences are, and when each type is preferable over the other.

Definition of Full Metal Jacket and Hollow Point Ammo

What is full metal jacket ammo?

Simply put, full metal jacket ammo is frequently made of a soft lead core built inside of a shell made up of hard metal such as cupronickel or gilding metal.

The general preference for this type of bullet often stems from the desire for increased muzzle velocity. These bullets maintain their composure and trajectory better than almost any others on the market.

Full metal jacket ammo

Full metal jacket ammo

In some cases, full metal jacket ammo contains a steel alloy casing.

FMJ bullets are incredibly strong – it is difficult for metal piercing substances to damage the bore of the bullet.

This, combined with the fact that these bullets do not expand upon hitting their target, makes them ideal for target shooting. Instead of expansion causing the bullet to slow and stop inside the target, full metal jacket bullets pass through and continue on a trajectory.

Full metal jacket ammo is cleaner than unjacketed bullets.

Everything within the bullet is fully concealed. All that has to do with the shooting process is smooth and straightforward, perfect for semi-autos.

For a 9mm, full metal jacket ammo is cleaner and stronger than hollow point.

What is hollow point ammo?

Hollow point ammo is preferred by hunters and those in defensive situations because it expands upon impact.

This type of ammo maximizes the stopping power of the shot. Targets are crippled and immobilized much more so than they are with full metal jacket ammo, increasing the odds of kill and of a successful hunt.

hollow point ammo

hollow point ammo

The expansion is caused by the hallow shape in the tip of the bullet. This allows the internal organs and tissue of the target to be severely impacted and wounded. Penetration is minimized.

For maximum power, many experienced shooters like to use jacketed hallow point bullets.

I personally have found these bullets extremely effective, as the added layer of metal delivers more impact than they otherwise have. What you will find as you progress as a shooter is that hollow point ammo is more versatile than full metal jacket in many situations.

For a 9mm, hollow point bullets are better for shoot to kill and self-defense situations.

Here’s a demonstration of the two.

Full metal jacket vs hollow point: When to use each, and why

Full metal jacket ammo has a bit of a sexy appeal to it.

New shooters are attracted by media coverage and the 1987 movie of the same name. It’s proven successful and useful in many military situations and other scenarios.

Hollow point bullet that has hit a target and expanded isolated

Hollow point bullet that has hit a target and expanded isolated

However, many experienced shooters as well as concealed carry activists prefer hollow point bullets. Let’s take a look at the breakdown:

  • Self-defense: Full metal jacket ammo is not often used in self-defense situations. Because it is a small-arms projectile, it can be used in concealed carry guns. These bullets are designed to move through its target and keep going, it often isn’t used for self-defense due to the risk of the bullet striking an unintended target. Use hollow point ammo for self-defense
  • Pass-through: Another fact about full metal jacket ammo is that due to the reduced expansion, the fact that they pass through what they hit often leaves targets less impaired than they otherwise would have been. When hunting, this can allow a target to move or remain slightly agile following impact
  • Quick feeding: Full metal jacket ammo feeds quickly and efficiently. Hollow point ammo is slightly less efficient in this category
  • Disco shooting and range practice: When firing at clay pigeons, you don’t really need the bullet to expand. They are going to break immediately upon impact. Full metal jacket bullets are fine for this, as long as there is no risk of unintended impact further down the range. The same goes for standard targets. Really, these situations are where specific shooters like to use what they are comfortable with
  • Hunting: In general, a shooter wants to maximize the impact of his or her shot. To do this, the expansion of the hollow point bullets is extremely preferable. I first figured this out as a kid hunting with my dad, and have never really gone back from it

If you’re planning to head to the gun store to buy some basic ammo for your concealed carry gun or next hunt, the best thing to do is go with hollow point. You’ll find more uses and will have less trouble locating waste and hit targets.

Here is a great video comparing the two.

Conclusion

As you’ve seen here, there is quite a difference in full metal jacket vs hollow point bullets. I hope you’ve gained a better understanding of them.

The general takeaway here is that hollow point bullets expand on contact and thus are more preferable for day-to-day situations because they reduce the risk of hitting targets downfield.

Full metal jacket bullets are stronger and cleaner, and generally better for situations when downfield unintentional targets are not an issue.

If you’ve enjoyed this article, please give it a share on social media. The more education and knowledge we can build in the gun community, the better for all. I’d love to hear about which you prefer – feel free to throw a comment down below and we’ll get a conversation going.

What is the Difference Between Semi Automatic vs Automatic Rifles?

.50 caliber machine gun


Are you confused by the difference between semi automatic vs automatic guns? What separates a semi-automatic gun from a fully automatic machine gun?

Both of them reload automatically, hence the ‘auto’ label.

The main difference between a semi-automatic and a fully automatic machine gun is that on a semi-automatic, the user must pull the trigger each time he or she wishes the gun to fire.

But let’s dive a little deeper into the two types of weapons and uncover other similarities and differences, as well as uses for both semi-auto vs full-auto guns.

Semi Automatic vs Automatic: Breaking It down

What it all comes down to is the ‘action’ on the gun. This refers to the operation of how a gun fires a bullet, ejects the cartridge, and reloads the next round.

Both of these types of guns handle the reloading part in an automated fashion. But the firing is where the difference is.

By definition, a machine gun refers to the fully automated version, which will continue to fire bullets until empty. Therefore, a semi-auto cannot technically be labeled as a machine gun.

  • On a semi-auto, once you pull the trigger to fire a bullet, the expelled gas from the round’s cartridge will eject the bullet casing automatically. Following this, a new round from either an internal or external ammunition magazine will be loaded into the firing chamber
  • For full-autos, this same practice happens. However, a full cycle is completed by pulling the trigger only one time. The first bullet is fired, spent casing ejected by the expelled gas, and a new round is dropped into the firing chamber. If the user continues to hold the trigger, the process will repeat itself indefinitely until the internal or external magazine is out of bullets
  • Think about some of the action and military movies you’ve watched in your life. It is pretty easy to tell when a full-auto gun is being used because of the rapid fire of the weapon with minimal effort from the shooter. Bullets are sprayed thoroughly, even as the shooter adjusts the aim of the weapon or of his/her personal stance. Semi-autos have a slower firing rate, noticeable by watching the pull finger on the shooter

Here is a great video on the differences between semi-auto and full-auto.

Semi Automatic vs Automatic: When Both Are Commonly Used

In the United States, full-auto weapons are typically only available to the military and law enforcement agencies.

The typical armed citizen cannot walk into a gun store and buy a full-auto machine gun.

The process of obtaining one requires extensive permitting and background checks, typically in line with the needs of the police or military.

Boy with ar 10 semi-auto gun

Individual citizens can attempt to obtain the permitting necessary to purchase a fully automatic weapon, but there is certainly no guarantee of success. Semi-automatic guns can be purchased by citizens who pass the background check and process for obtaining one, and cooperate with any waiting periods or restrictions in the area where they live and are purchasing the gun.

This video explains how a semi-automatic gun works.

Semi Automatic vs Automatic: Types of Guns

Commonly, semi-automatic guns are shotguns, pistols, and rifles.

These types of guns work well with the automated reload and have a trigger conducive to quick pull and fire. Some will be recoil operated.

This refers to guns that have a locked breach, and are auto-loading. The automatic loading cycle is powered by the recoil.

The force of the shot recoils, emptying the chamber of the used casing and allowing the new bullet to load.

Others are powered by gas instead of recoil. The gas yoked from the fired round drives a piston into the weapon’s barrel. This pushes out the used shell, making room for the new one, which is automatically loaded from either the internal or external magazine by pressure.

No matter which type of power a shooter has in their semi-auto gun, no cocking or additional effort is needed to load the new round.

Here is a video on how a full-auto AK works.

Semi-auto vs full-auto: The debate between the two

There has been much conversation back and forth about whether machine guns, fully automatic, have a viable role in society. If so, what is that role?

Outside of law enforcement and military, there isn’t much of an argument that can succeed at a legal level, at least not right now. But gun hobbyists and fanatics don’t need to get all up in a tiff about it. Semi-automatic guns are honestly pretty impressive these days.

What’s wrong with a little trigger finger exercise? As fast as you can pull, you can shoot round after round until the magazine is empty.

Plus, unless you’re in California or another spot that outlaws them, gun owners can employ a multi-burst trigger activator to make the shooting process even faster.

With these handy gadgets, recoil is a breeze and shooters notice a significant improvement in shooting speed without much effect on their accuracy – provided they’ve got the shoulder for increased pressure.

Plus, the skill of mastering a semi-auto is something that’s definitely worth bragging about if you can back it up at the range. Trigger masters command a great deal of respect in gun circles.

Many of today’s finest shooters use semi-automatic weapons with the speed and finesse of a machine gun – to the point that it takes a keen eye to tell the difference.

Conclusion

Semi automatic vs automatic rifles will remain an ongoing conversation in gun circles.

Hopefully, this article has given you a better understanding of the difference between the two, and of their important place in society. If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share across your social media channels.

Remember that next time someone at the range starts rambling about machine guns, they are probably full of it. You now can correct them on the fact that a semi-auto is not technically a machine gun. The more knowledge in the gun community, the better.

I’d love to get some fresh takes on people’s favorite semi-autos as well as machine guns, so feel free to drop a comment below with what you’re shooting. Also note what you hope to be shooting next time you get a nice bonus at work.

What Are the Best Shotgun Scope Options for Deer Hunting

What is the best shotgun scope available on the entry-level market right now?

There are a number of them, and most of them essentially get the job done the same way.

best shotgun scope for hunting

best shotgun scope for hunting

It is important to identify whether the shotgun scope you are looking to buy is going to solve your personal problems, such as increasing the line of vision, improving accuracy, or making the transition from the range into the hunting field.

The best shotgun scope for you depends on three factors:

  • What type of hunter you are, and your experience level
  • Whether you’re shooting long range
  • How important it is to you to have the top measurements in all categories

Let’s take a look at the best shotgun scope in those three categories: Shotgun Scope for the gear nerd needing top measurements/ for the experienced hunter/ and Shogun Scope for solving the problems of the everyday hunter

Top Our Pick For Best Shotgun Scopes For Hunting 

 

PRODUCT DETAILS    
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Nikon Prostaff Shotgun Hunter 2-7 x 32 black Matte Riflescope(Bdc 200)

  • Hi low mounts. No problems with clearance or mounting
  • 200 yard or higher moving targets.
  • Seamlessly consistent across both platforms, perfect for those trying out a new way of shooting
CHECK ON AMAZON
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Bushnell 751432 Trophy Riflescope, 1.75-4x32mm, 1" Main Tube, Circle-X Shotgun Slug, Matte Black

  • Focuses extremely fast as the top priority
  • Sluggers find consistency across the board. The reticle is best in class
  • The light transmission is fantastic
CHECK ON AMAZON
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Simmons 517793 Prodiamond Shotgun Prohunter Riflescope (4x32, Matte)

  • Perfect for short range hunting
  • This is the one scope on this list that really accentuates the ‘entry-level’ moniker
  • Perfect for twilight and early morning
CHECK ON AMAZON

Top 3 Best Shotgun Scopes On The Market 

This is my review about three shotgun scope options on the market, it will help you find the best for hunting. Check out it:

1. Simmon Prohunter Prodiamond Shotgun Riflescope (1.5-5X32, Matte)

best shotgun scope

Best shotgun scope for the gear nerd needing top measurements

This scope has a design and features perfect for a serious hunter. At this price, it beats expectations easily. You may worry a budget scope cannot live up to the more expensive models, but when it comes to this Simmon scope, you would be wrong.

You get amazing optics paired with durable construction for a scope that will knock your socks off. When it comes to the experience, you get HD clarity coupled with high-quality, multi-coated glass that is water and fog proof that provides for excellent views. It also features a rubberized variable power ring.

Moving targets are no problem thanks to the TrueZero fingertip windage and elevation adjustment system and Quick Target Acquisition eyepiece. The 5x magnification and 32 mm objective lens suit your every need when out in the brush, forest, or field. The ProDiamond eyepiece offers about four inches of eye relief for the entire range.

This scope weighs in at 8.6 ounces and measures 11 5/8 inches long. It has a sleek look that pairs well with just about any rifle. The combination of high-quality craftsmanship, sleek design, and special features makes this a great choice when you need a scope that can stand up to the demands of a busy hunt.

Outperforms expectations in wooded areas where you are trying to take aim for a 200-yard shot and the line of sight is questionable.

The light weight is wonderful if you worry about the overall gun weight and want to keep it low.

No worries about bumping or moving the scope as it will hold to zero despite rugged conditions.

  • Hi low mounts. No problems with clearance or mounting, you’d think this scope was developed by the gun manufacturer
  • 200 yard or higher moving targets. If you use the gun for long-range shots, this scope will be the best of the entry-level class for your money

2. Bushnell Trophy Shotgun Scope with Circle-X Reticle, 1.75-4 x 32mm, Matte Black

Bushnell Trophy Shotgun Scope with Circle-X Reticle

Best shotgun scope for the experienced hunter

Best Shotgun Scope for the experienced hunter

The best shotgun scope for those already bringing a level of confidence to the table is this one.

The Bushnell Trophy falls behind others in magnification and eye relief, but not far enough that a confident shooter won’t be able to hit their target. If you are looking for a scope that focuses extremely fast as the top priority, this is the best scope for you

Bushnell really focused on the windage issue with this scope.

Mounting and elevation are secure and consistent across different guns, as you’ll find that hi low mounts typical among entry-level scopes will do the job. Get 1 inch rings and a mounting rail.

If you hunt in foggy or otherwise non-optimal conditions, or at altitude or across widely varying different seasons, this scope will give you a consistent line of sight. It’s versatile. You’ll never find yourself searching for a wipe or needing to remount in a situation where the scope should have performed

  • During the golden hour (either morning or evening), the light transmission is fantastic. You’ll have the best vision of the season
  • Sluggers find consistency across the board. The reticle is best in class
  • It isn’t as versatile as it could be. Experienced shooters will have to use their skills to make up for the reduced magnification

3. Simmons 517793 Prodiamond Shotgun Prohunter Riflescope (4x32, Matte)

Simmons 517793 Prodiamond Shotgun Prohunter Riflescope

Shotgun Scope for solving the problems of the everyday hunter

Shogun Scope for solving the problems of the everyday hunter

While the magnification (4x) is not a speck above standard, Simmons outdoes itself with the 4 inches of eye relief. Coupled with that is the Quick Target Acquisition, making this scope a great option for beginners and regular shooters.

The imagery is good for hunters of moving targets, especially deer, turkey, and others than tend to bounce as they trot. So this scope is perfect for deerhunting.

For newer shooters, the windage issue isn’t really a problem with the Simmons. It is the best shotgun scope for them because the elevation adjustment system isn’t going to budge, no matter the weather condition or season.

I like how easily it mounts onto my 870 remington shotgun. The one issue I have heard about with this scope is hard recoil. I recommend shooters to really fasten the scope securely and double check that everything is lined up right.

Most younger shooters that aren’t able to suck up the recoil as naturally may see problems if shooting many 3030s or similar rounds. But for less recoil, this scope will serve just fine

  • Perfect for short range hunting. You won’t find a better scope at 75 or fewer yards

  • Improves accuracy greatly, another reason why it’s best for beginners. This is the one scope on this list that really accentuates the ‘entry-level’ moniker

  • Light is collected and displayed really well. Perfect for twilight and early morning

Finding their niche

The best shotgun scopes on the market are all sufficient at basic daily hunting and range shooting.

Where they differ comes down to the slight intricacies of the manufacturer and how the scopes handle themselves once mounted.

You experienced shooters should go with the Bushnell Trophy Shotgun Scope, while I strongly recommend the Simmons scope for anyone who hasn’t used a scope before or is new to shooting. It is the most basic of the three

Conclusion

Overall, the best shotgun scope in this entry-level class is the Simmon Prohunter Prodiamond Shotgun Riflescope. Its versatility, high level of magnification, and ease of use make it a no contest for those not willing to break the bank on their shotgun scope.

Mount it securely and do a test run at the range before bringing it into field, and you will find a pleasant, replicable experience each time you hunt – no matter the location or time. If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can get more hunters to put thought into their scope selection.

If you are using a shotgun, please consider buying the best gun safe for the money to store it.

Feel free to leave a comment – I’d love to get a conversation going

Ruger SP101 vs GP100: Which is Better for Personal Protection?

Which pistol to carry for defense purposes is an important question. Over the years, I’ve switched between a number of different guns for carry purposes and to use at the range.

Two of them have stood out above the others as the most appropriate for general carry – the Ruger sp101 vs gp100.

sp101 vs gp100 ruger

sp101 vs gp100 ruger

I spent about ten years with an SP101 type model after it came to market in 1989 before recently switching to the GP100.

Today, I’ll tell you what I liked and didn’t like about both and we’ll compare the SP101 vs gp100 Ruger. Let’s get started.

The breakdown

The SP101 maintains the feel and functionality of classic concealed carry guns. It’s small, in the featherweight class, and easy to draw. 

  • The best thing about it in this case is that the gun handles like a high-performance weapon. It’s powerful, relatively easy to aim and shoot, and certainly is tough to detect before you draw
  • It comes as a 5-shot, 6-shot, or 8-shot
  • It has a strong recoil, though, and it does take a moment to position yourself before shooting. Those action shots in the movies where the character runs while drawing and shooting aren’t really that realistic with the SP101 – in actuality, there’s a good amount of kick and continuing to run in a straight line would be near impossible

Do you want check price? Check it here: 

The GP100 is actually a modernized version of what was known as the Security Six. Physically, the newer model is much cleaner and fires better. It is highly preferable to me in day-to-day situations. I keep urging my wife to get one too, because she is now jealous of mine. 

  • It has a comfortable feel to it and is certainly a featherweight at 2.2 pounds. It is popular with a handful of law enforcement departments around the world because of its versatility
  • Depending on the catalog number, this gun handles anything from the .357 Magnum to a .44 Special. It’s got a wide range of caliber fittings and barrel lengths, coming as a 5-shot, 6-shot, 7-shot, or 10-shot.
  • I’m not as big of a fan of the after-market support and add-ons for the GP100, this is one thing I really do love about the SP101.

Which is better for personal protection GP101 or SP101?

In short, the GP100 is a better gun for concealed carry and personal protection. The gun itself is an evolution of previous hand-held revolvers, marking an improvement upon them, and it has been modified even since as it fits different caliber and barrel lengths. The gun is more versatile and can be better fitted to your personal preferences.

I find it more comfortable in concealed mode, in fact I hardly even notice that it is there. I love .357 Magnums, and the flow of this gun throughout the loading and shooting process is very smooth.

The SP101 is more of a heavy-duty type small revolver. Over the years, it’s been used by police departments as a quick-grab backup weapon, and is designed for situations where it will be used by a highly trained professional.

I used it quite a bit at the range to get a good feel, and I’ve got to say that I was able to feel comfortable with the GP100 much faster than the SP101.

They are both great guns. But let’s say that you are carrying a gun for the instance when a bad guy pops out of nowhere and you (as a common citizen, not a police officer) have to react quickly and depend on your gun to perform every time. The GP100 is easier to handle and easier to shoot.

Amenities, action, and sights: Oh my!

Both of these handguns come in multiple versions, barrel lengths, and caliber, fit to taste.

What I really like about the GP100 is the shot capacity and variety of calibers. Almost all, with the exception of the GPF-840 and the 1757, are full shroud, which is a huge plus for me. I prefer one of the variations with adjustable sights, because I’m old school and like to try out many different options before settling on my emergency go-to.

Ruger GP 100 Match Champion (.357 Magnum)

Ruger GP 100 Match Champion (.357 Magnum). Image from hickok45

The SP101 is a bit heavier than many other revolvers (not enough to cause a major disturbance, but if weight is your biggest factor, this is another reason to go with the GP 100). This gun does have a smooth double action, along with a bobbed hammer, two things I really like and that kept it at my waist for nearly ten years. It offers large, high-visibility sights, which I also loved. However, during rapid fire, I found I had a harder time tracking the sights than I have with the GP100.

Ruger SP101 .357 Magnum. Image from hickok45

Scorecard

As a review, let’s take a look at the points each gun has in its category here at the end of the comparison:

GP100

  • More options for customization
  • Better sight tracking during rapid fire
  • Variety of calibers is a big plus
  • Shot capacity is a big plus
  • Definite proof that it has gotten better over the years

SP101

  • Better after-market support and add-ons.
  • Smooth double action and bobbed hammer making the shooting fun and painless.
  • Very consistent, but with a higher recoil issue and (I felt) tougher to master.

Conclusion

Both the GP100 and the SP101 are fine small size revolvers to keep by your side in concealed carry mode.

Both can get the job the done.

But what has really drawn me to switch from the SP101 to the GP100 is the ease of comfortability I felt when learning the gun that was new to me. It takes a lot to get an old timer like me to change his ways, but the GP100 is the best revolver I have ever shot. I’ll keep it by my side until I die.

If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media. I’d love to see how far we can push the word of the GP100. Feel free to leave comments below, let’s get a discussion going!. Oh one thing, if you need the gun safe for this ruger gun, you can take a look my post about best handgun safe for the money

What is the Different Between Rimfire vs Centerfire?

One of the more common questions asked by new shooters is this: What is the difference between rimfire vs. centerfire?

And, beyond that, why should I choose one over the other? Today we are going to dissect these two types of ammo and determine which one is better for your specific situation.

I personally prefer centerfire based on my shooting style, technique, and hobbies, but there are still small-cartridge situations where rimfire is better. Let’s take a look.

what is the different between Rimfire vs Centerfire

what is the different between Rimfire vs Centerfire

Rimfire vs. Centerfire: What the hell are they?

Rimfire and centerfire refer to the categories of primer ignition systems, basically, what gets the whole process of firing the bullet going.

The explosion caused by the lighting of the primer causes the gunpowder to react and project the bullet forward out of the barrel of the gun. Every single time a gun is fired, this is what happens, regardless of whether a rimfire or centerfire cartridge is being used.

With centerfire cartridges, the explosion is concentrated more centrally in the middle of the cartridge. This creates a more consistent firing of the bullet. Because of this increase in performance, the professionals in the police and military are preferring centerfire cartridges.

Rimfire cartridges see the explosion overtaking more of the cartridge as it is tripped at the rim. The pressure on the bullet isn’t as concentrated on the center of it, and I’ve heard tale of rimfire cartridges not firing with the power of their centerfire counterparts.

Rimfire vs Centerfire: How to they work?

Centerfire cartridges locate the primer in the center of the cartridge case head. These are much more common these days as cartridge size preference trends towards larger sizes. You really won’t find anything other than centerfire cartridges in larger or even medium sizes these days.

The move towards centerfire cartridges is based largely on the fact that they are more reliable in heavy duty situations. Police, military, and serious hunters and shooters have pretty much switched entirely to centerfire cartridges based on their dependability, consistency, and reliability.

Because of this, and because of the fact that so many shooters want to emulate the pros, most shops will stock a wide variety of centerfire cartridges while only stocking a minimal amount of rimfire cartridges.

Rimfire cartridges are pretty much a thing of the past, except for certain gun models. A rimfire cartridge works like this: the firing pin ignites the primer by striking the cartridge’s rim, causing friction and igniting the blast.

What is the difference between Rimfire vs Centerfire?

Basically, the difference starts with the power issues that we’ve discussed above. Rimfire cartridges are cheaper, for sure, and have lower recoil than centerfire cartridges.

One of the biggest drawbacks of rimfire cartridges is how hard they are to find. The older guys that I grew up with have been buying all the stock they can for fear of it no longer being available anywhere that they shop. As a result of this, hardly any new shooters are using rimfire cartridges.

Centerfire cartridges have higher recoil and are more expensive. But, because they are so widely available and there is no fear of them all being bought out or discontinued, the market price will probably eventually drop significantly just based on supply and demand.

So what is the better between Rimfire vs Centerfire?

I highly urge you, even if you are a long-time shooter, to make the switch to centerfire cartridges. The long term sustainability is much better and you’ll find that you spend less money over time because of:

  • Availability
  • Higher amounts of fittings
  • More ability to share and match with other shooters

Who fits rimfire cartridges and who fits centerfire cartridges?

Rimfire cartridges are certainly not as prominent as they once were. Right now, 17 caliber and .22 caliber pistol and rifle cartridges can be found in rimfire variety, along with some shotgun cartridges that are small-bore.

You won’t find any game hunting cartridges using rimfire anymore. Beyond that, mostly just collectors’ items will fit rimfire cartridges. .22LR are the most frequently used rimfire cartridge fittings. You’ll also see them in WMR, Winchester Magnum, Hornady Mach 2, and Hornady Magnum. Not a ton of variety offered here!

For today’s pistol, rifle, and shotgun ammunition, most of what is commonly used will be centerfire. If you are looking for a specific rimfire cartridge, your best bet is going to be to shop online on a store’s website first before visiting in person just to make sure that they will stock it before you head out.

Conclusion

I hope you have gained a solid understanding of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges.

Centerfire is the way of the future. Rimfire will likely continue on its slow and miserable decline.

What the high-impact shooters of the world prefer is what goes, and you’ll be better off siding with them. I started using centerfire cartridges years ago because I predicted this trend after spending years in the military serving my country.

If you have enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can increase awareness of the differences between rimfire and centerfire cartridges and get more people switched over.

Feel free to share your comments in the section below and we’ll get a conversation going. Take care!

Which Is Better Between 6.5 Creedmoor vs .308 Winchester?

You want to know which is better between 6.5 Creedmoor vs .308 Winchester?

There has been much talk lately about the performance of the 6.5 Creedmoor vs .308 Winchester. In my opinion, the 6.5 Creedmoor is a better cartridge overall. This is because of its ballistic capabilities and the fact that it is slightly smaller than the .308.

I happen to be fond of the little red tip as well, which is not present on the .308. In this article I’m going to show you why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the superior option, and why you should look for it to play an increasingly large role in the market, in everything from store shelf presence to gun fitting, going forward.

Overall Performance

When shooting, both cartridges perform well and are effective for hunting and target shooting at the range. But for medium to long-range shooting, the 6.5 Creedmoor is much better because it uses slightly skinnier bullets that make it downrange at a faster rate of speed than the other, and I’ve seen multiple times this have a direct impact on accuracy.

The .308 just can’t quite keep up on shots over 700 yards is what I’ve noticed. The longer the shot, the bigger the difference there is between the two cartridges. The .308 Winchester is incredibly well-known in the shooting world. Pretty much everyone has experience with them.

If you’re going for something easy that is simple to get opinions on, fit to a gun, ammo for, or anything else, this is the winner here. But once we start to look a little deeper into the two cartridge types, some major points begin to rise. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a better cartridge, plain and simple. For long-range shooting, for accuracy, for speed. Dare I say, even for consistency with loading and gun powder?

What About Build Of .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor.

The shoulder is sharper on the 6.5 Creedmoor. This also factors into accuracy. If you spend a significant amount of time out in the field with both cartridges, you’ll notice that the brass lasts longer in the Creedmoor. The Creedmoor is based on a .30 TC Case, unlike the .308.

I do have to give the .308 credit for its consistency, however. Every time I’ve used it, or been hunting with someone who is, I feel like I know what to expect with each shot, from load to follow through. When I start getting carried away distance-wise with the 6.5 Creedmoor, I frequently notice some variabilities in the overall feel of the shot. This is particularly true when loading.

The case itself, on both options, is incredibly sturdy. They’ll be dependable whenever you need them and are worth the money. I don’t want to make it seem like I hate the .308 Winchester. I just think that it has had its time, and over the last ten years or more we’ve started to see the rise of a superior option. Particularly for distance accuracy, as I’ll note repeatedly.

I’ll give the .308 the edge for range shooting. It’s more consistent on shorter to mid-range shots and can be used in more guns. And because just about everyone has experience with them, these cartridges are easy to find bullets for and an expert to assist you with loading or anything else that you need help with.

Shooting

The rising popularity of 6.5 mm cartridges is ensuring that shops will have more and more selections for the Creedmoor when it comes to bullets. Your choice of shot should be largely based on case outline. Again, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the winner here, particularly because as it grows in popularity, more options become available. Both cartridges will suffice just fine in the field. But if you’re hunting with someone using the other, you will notice differences over time.

Shooting with .308 Winchester
Video of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e4s1cHQpZI

The 170+ grain measure of the .308 struggles with magazine limitations. I also seem to have better luck with the Creedmoor when it comes to powder. It shoots at a higher speed: a 140-grain shot sees 2710 fps with a superior BC of .526-.535. You ain’t going to get that with the .308!

The 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil because it fires lighter bullets, making the shots easier on you over time. The .308 is the winner on the lifespan of the barrel, due to the fact that that the .605 has a smaller bore and shoots at higher speeds. It does tend to wear the barrel out.

Shooting with 6.5 Creedmoor group 900 yards
Video
of Ryan’s Range Report

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Versatility of 6.5 Creedmoor vs .308 Winchester

If you’re using a bolt action style rifle, .308 will be more apt to work with your gun. Obviously, this depends on what you’re using. But as the 6.5 Creedmoor becomes more popular, more rifle makers have started to make options that will accommodate. I’ve heard hunters say that .308 ammo is cheaper and more available (see video below), but this is going to be less and less of a problem as time moves along.

Since the 6.5 jumped into the spotlight, it has slowly gained momentum and traction. It’s versatility has increased in tune with that. Will it ever surpass the .308 Winchester in popularity? Probably not. Old hacks like me are stuck in our ways, in fact I’m one of the more progressive hunting types in my crew and the only one that currently prefers the 6.5 Creedmoor.

The Verdict About 6.5 Creedmoor vs .308 Winchester

As I’m sure I’ve made very clear throughout this article, I prefer the 6.5 Creedmoor over the .308 Winchester. It’s a better cartridge because of improved accuracy and spotting, particularly in long-range shooting. The .308 is the stuff of legend or lore these days, but sometimes it’s best that a legend passes the torch.

Down the line, the 6.5 Creedmoor will be increasingly fitted and common to more shooters’ tastes and hopefully we can wake up the rest to its superiority. And in my opinion, 6.5 Creedmoor is the best ammo for an AR-10 rifle.

If you enjoyed this article, please share on social media so that we can get the good word out! Perhaps you’re an old .308 guru – throw a comment down below and let’s get a conversation going.

Do You Own a Shotgun? Let’s Find How To Aim A Shotgun

Finding the right stance and getting comfortable with aiming is something that all new shooters have to go through. It’s a fun process – it allows for a bit of personalization and flare to come into the sport.

When I first started hunting with my dad and uncle and a kid, it took me several times of going to the range and trying out new positions. Once I became comfortable, I began honing my aim.

While much of it is about feeling, there are some general guidelines to follow. Here are some tips for how to aim a shotgun.

Learning the Proper Stance

Spend any time hanging out at a gun range and you’ll likely see some interesting stances. Some stand straight and tall, others do weird things with their arms. My favorite is the old guy who stands with his feet super far apart – maybe he’s worried about knocking himself over when he takes a shot?

  • The best stance that will allow you to aim your shotgun easily is to put your feet between armpit length and shoulder-length apart. Much further than that and you’re lowering your line of vision and not optimizing for the best balance points. Closer together and you’re liable to blow yourself over on kickback.
  • Just over half of your weight should be on the front foot. Not too much, because you want to remain balanced and stable. But enough that your momentum is slightly forward. If too much is on the back foot, you’ll find that you shoot over the top a lot because you’re leaning back when the shot is taken.
  • Stand at a 45-degree angle to the target. This allows for comfortable and proper shotgun positioning.
  • I always recommend shooters do a bit of rocking back and forth. Lightly lift the toes in the process. This familiarizes you with the stance.
  • This video here goes over the basics to know how to aim a shotgun.

Finding your ‘Point of Aim’

Here is where a shooter can put a bit of their personal vibe into their shooting stance and shotgun aim.

Now you’re in your stance and working on the rocking motion. If you haven’t already been doing so, hold the gun in a shooting position during the rocking process. Notice where you feel most comfortable during the rock.

Likely, it will be right about where 55-60% of the weight is on the front foot. Once you’ve identified this position, STOP!

That is your natural point of aim. The object with this term, as it relates to how to aim a shotgun, is that this is the angle where you’ll shoot the target. This is where the bullseye will be directly in front, or where the clay will be broken by your bullet.

It’s important to remember that you’re not shooting a rifle. Don’t stand fully sideways with the gun near the shoulder. I prefer to have the stance a bit more open here.

Keep it flexible and position your head

When aiming your shotgun, the goal is to be able to shoot in more than one direction without becoming uncomfortable or urged to reset yourself. Make sure you are able to comfortably position your head above the barrel and hone in on the line of site.

  • I urge shooters to rock a bit every time they get settled into the stance. Come to the same final position the same way every time. Eventually it will be a habit.
  • Don’t pull your head off the stock. The shot should hit wherever the eyes are pointed. If you find yourself looking down at the barrel, or left-to-right or vice versa, focus on keeping your eyes and head positioned correctly.
  • Keep your feet planted when turning, and move with your upper body. Going back to the whole flexibility thing, following and aiming at a moving target should be an easy thing to do. It shouldn’t require you to jerk yourself around in a circle.
  • Don’t close your eyes. Train yourself to keep both eyes open during the shot. Depth perception is as important as anything else in relation to how to aim a shotgun.
  • Work on the mount and positioning on the shoulder. It shouldn’t be a painful thing when you pull the trigger. Slide the gun back and forth until you’re able to find a comfortable position.
  • Here is some advice on leading your target.

Conclusion

Aiming a shotgun is really about making the gun a part of your body. If it isn’t a natural stance, you’re never going to feel comfortable as a shooter. The right point of aim for you is the one that allows the most flexibility without compromising any sturdiness or power. Remember the rocking motion. I’ve been hunting for over fifty years now and still rock into my stance every single time.

COMSEVENTHFLT

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If you’ve enjoyed this article, I urge you to share it on social media to help others get accustomed to finding the best possible stance and aiming their shotgun correctly. Feel free to leave any tips here in the comments, I’m always game for upping the ante a bit!

Featured Image via Torrey Wiley 

Which is Better Between .260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor?

Do similar rounds produce similar results? Any experienced shooter will tell you that that is not always the case. For direct proof, look no further than the .260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor. Both of these are a perfect match for the .308 Winchester rifle. In many cases, if you weren’t the one who loaded the rounds, you may not be able to even tell a difference.

My personal experience has led me to prefer the .260 Remington over the 6.5 Creedmoor. We’ll get into why in this article. I’m old school, is the main reason. This guy pretty much sums up my thoughts on the .260 Remington in this video:

The old classic vs. the new hotshot

.260 Remington is a classic among long-time riflemen, having been the backbone of what we’ve used for such a long time. The reason for this is that seasoned hunters have expertise in reloading. .260 Remington rounds necessitate this, while 6.5 Creedmoor rounds are better for those without that reloading expertise.

As many new hunters aren’t trained in the art of the reload, Creedmoor can significantly reduce the learning curve when looking to get out into the field. Additionally, the Creedmoor has a shoulder angle that is sharper than the Remington. This comes with less body taper

Additionally, less water is held by the Creedmoor. This won’t affect certain shooters, but it’s worth noting. It can fit a longer bullet because of this, but the general use of handheld cartridges has all but eliminated any benefit there. Here, a video description of the two takes place.

High performance vs. low performance, and vice versa

The brass on the .260 Remington is of a higher quality than the 6.5 Creedmoor. With the Creedmoor, you may find that the brass isn’t as long lasting. This affects hunters as they experience less overall durability and flow with their shooting than if they were to use the .260 Remington.

The Creedmoor’s case is a bit shorter than the .260 Remington’s. The Remington is undoubtedly faster as a result of the higher case capacity, necessitating less maintenance in the field. Remingtons are better for those looking to use a bolt gun, but for the semi-automatic inclined, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the better choice. I’m always using bolt, so the Remington works for me.

When it comes to distance shooting, the Remington will be solid up to at least 800-900 yards.

Personal preference and skill level are a big factor

Beyond that, the accuracy can lose a bit of its dependability depending on skill and build. I’ve got mine accurate up to 1000, but I’ve been doing this for a long time. I will concede that the Creedmoor can perfectly nail a target from 1000 yards when built the right way and taken good care of. If everything is prepped correctly, that is the better option for really long distances.

I recommend keeping a chart of data from the rounds you fire with both. Test them out, and through your charts you can identify which one you are more accurate with, and which one makes the overall process easier for you. Keep track of powder, distance, velocity, and muzzle energy. I also encourage testing at different distances. Keep a record of 100 yard accuracy percentage compared with longer shots. Those who are new to long distance shooting should stick with the choice that they are the most comfortable with.

I also encourage shoots to watch some videos online of different practices with both options. Here are a couple great options:

  • Creedmore footage
  • Remington footage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXTFkpIUz9k

 

Conclusion

At the end of the day, it really depends on personal preference. Take into consideration which bullets you plan to shoot, and whether or not you are willing to switch them to accommodate aesthetics or if you are hard lined on performance and personal comfort.

I’ve grown so accustomed to the .260 Remington over the decades that I’m not going to be switching anything up at this point.

If you enjoyed this article, please share on social media – us gun freaks always love a good debate on equipment.

Feel free to share your personal opinions in the comment section here, as I’m sure we’ve got a community of 6.5 Creedmoor users out there that have thoughts on the matter.

Featured Image via Madison Scott-Clary

How to Sharpen a Broadhead

When it comes to bagging a deer, having a sharp broadhead is just as important as mastering the art of long-range archery. Without a good blood trail, locating your kill or wounded deer can prove to be quite difficult. A sharp broadhead will puncture the flesh and skin more directly and completely then a dull one, causing more blood and faster bleed out. It’s very similar to any type of sharp knife – the sharper the blade, the harder the bleeding. Here are the best practices for how to sharpen a broadhead.

Identify which type of broadhead you are using and assemble the tools

A fact that many new archers don’t realize is that most broadheads require at least a small bit of sharpening to reach optimum performance. If you’ve bought the kind that are manufactured specifically to be incredibly sharp and not need sharpening, you’re off the hook for now.

I’d venture to say that a vast majority of broadheads will need at least a quick tune-up before being ready to hit the field.

I recommend using broadhead arrows when hunting because they penetrate much better than other arrow types, and are also more accurate. Now that we’ve identified the broadhead type, let’s make sure that all necessary tools are on-hand:

  • Broadhead sharpener. These can be picked up at a hunting store or online. It’s worth it to buy a decent one for the garage if you plan to bow hunt regularly. Small, cheaper ones are also available for use on the go if that’s more your style.
  • Sharpening stone. If you don’t have a specified broadhead sharpener, a sharpening stone can get the job done. You’ll have to exercise more control and precision here. Obviously, you don’t want to cut yourself.

Sharpening with a broadhead sharpener

I keep a dedicated sharpener at home, as I don’t really like to do it on the fly or use equipment that isn’t meant for the task. The first step, before any sharpening takes place, is to install the broadhead onto the arrow to make sure it fits properly. Once you’ve got the head onto the arrow, we’re ready to use the sharpener. This tool allows users to hold the arrow by the end near the broadhead. You’ll want to get a secure grip on it using both hands.

  • Place the arrow in the center of the two plates at the top of the sharpener. The broadhead should be on top of the plates.
  • Sharpen the head by running it along the plates, much like you would a kitchen knife on one of those automatic sharpeners. It’s important not to counteract your sharpening by going back the other way.
  • Run it along from the back of the broadhead in towards the tip. This always seems to give more control over the action, in addition to optimizing the sharpening process.
  • Check the head for sharpness by lightly rubbing your finger along it at a perpendicular angle. Again, keep in mind that this is similar to a sharp kitchen knife- if you scrape too hard or the wrong way, you’re going to cut your finger open. I’m not going to sit here and tell you precisely when the head is ready. When it’s sharp enough, you’ll know.
  • If you are using top of the line arrowheads, I highly encourage you to use a dedicated sharpener. This will improve the life of the arrowheads, maintain accuracy, and ensure the best job of sharpening is done.

Sharpening using a whetstone or other file

If you aren’t keen on spending some cash on a nice sharpener, a whetstone will do the trick. Just file the headstone as you would anything else on the whetstone. 3 pronged broadheads are tough to do on a surface like this, but other than that you shouldn’t have any problems.

I don’t recommend doing this with top-notch broadheads, for risk of damaging them and having to spend a bunch of money replacing them. But if you’re out in the field or on a camping trip, having a portable way to sharpen the heads is typically better than nothing.

A bastard file is my favorite of these. Approach it like you’re using a dedicated sharpener, with the broadhead attached to the arrow, and file like you would anything else on there. Again, pretty tough with three-pronged heads, but you get the gist. You can take the bastard file anywhere: keep in your pocket or in your satchel.

Conclusion

Broadheads can be sharpened in a number of ways. Ever since I was a kid, I’ve been taking the extra time to keep the heads sharp and clean. Accuracy is your best friend when out in the field, and leaving a solid trail of blood to track down the animal is going to make the entire process easier.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this article on how to sharpen a broadhead. Please share on social media so that your friends and family can learn the benefits, and feel free to leave a comment. I’d love to get a discussion going.

Which Shotgun Choke is the Most Open?

Which shotgun choke is the most open? For those of us in the firearms community, the term ‘pattern’ is something that arises frequently. This refers to the column of round shot pellets leaving the barrel of the gun. As they move further away, they begin to spread out. Towards the end of the shotgun’s range, targets will be missed by the pellets as they spread further apart.

The shotgun choke is the response of gun designers in their attempt to combat this effect. Choking means that the bore is restricted, which will keep the pattern closer together for longer distances.

Which shotgun choke is the most open?

The most open shotgun choke is called a ‘cylinder.’ The easiest way for you to analyze this is to look at the muzzle end of the barrel. You’ll notice that with cylinder chokes, there actually isn’t any constriction at all. The diameter of the choke is the same as the inside of the shotgun barrel. There is the lowest amount of bore reduction.

Restriction is essentially non-existent here, which causes the pattern to spread out much more so than with higher restriction chokes.

The tightest kind of shotgun chokes are called ‘extra tights.’ These are basically the opposite of a cylinder choke. Restriction of the pattern’s spread is maximized, for increased long-range target accuracy.

For larger game, tighter chokes can help with targets on the move and further away. But for me, it’s been many years since I’ve used a tight choke. I don’t do much other than duck hunting anymore. I’ve got a buddy who is a diehard fan of turkey hunting, and he prefers to use a tight choke. Here is a great video explaining shotgun chokes with visuals.

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Why do I want to use a looser choke?

The biggest advantage to using a looser choke is seen particularly by duck hunters. With waterfowl, a super tight choke can have two effects when using steel pellets (lead pellets were outlawed by the federal government for waterfowl hunting in the nineties):

  • Potential damage to the barrel. Steel can damage the barrel because it isn’t as malleable as lead. It doesn’t cooperate as well with tight chokes.
  • It can harm the meat on the animal. Obviously, if you’re hunting for food, you don’t want the meat to be tarnished by the shot.
  • I really like the way these guys explained why they use certain chokes on duck hunts.:

So, to prevent these two things from happening, waterfowl hunters began using more open chokes. Hence, the rising popularity of the cyclinder.

I first began to prefer an open choke shortly after the regulations took place in 1991. By the following season, I began noticing severe distress to the barrel of my shotgun. This began to have a great impact on my hunting, so I started using the cyclinder choke.

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Ever since, I’ve been working on ways to maximize my shooting accuracy with the most open choke, and have gotten a lot better. It takes an immense amount of practice, but at the end of the day I have better meat resulting from my increased shooting skill level. All without damaging the barrel of my gun.

The bottom line

When selecting the best choke for your shotgun, the most important factor is to consider what type of game you are hunting. For turkeys and larger game birds, a tighter choke is going to be the better option.

For those of us duck hunters, the cyclinder is the most open shotgun choke and therefore the best for us. I always recommend heading to the range and spending ample time on the patterning board prior to hitting the field. Notice how the pellets strike the target, and adjust your shooting technique as necessary.

Many new hunters don’t realize the advantages of using an open choke on their shotgun when waterfowl hunting. I’d appreciate it if you shared this article on social media so that more new hunters can learn of the pros and cons of different chokes. Do you have any techniques you’d like to share? Go ahead and leave them here in the comments, and we’ll get a discussion going.

Featured Image by Keith Riley-Whittingham

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